Today we travel through the Montes de Oca (Goose Mountains), dreaded by pilgrims in the Middle Ages as a hideout of bandits and wolves, and where many pilgrims lost their way as they traversed the dense pine forests. To assist them, San Juan de Ortega, a 12th century monk, built a monastery in this desolate area. After reaching the monastery, we visited the saint's tomb in the monastery church. We also saw the Romanesque capital which depicts the Annunciation and which draws hundreds of visitors each spring when, on the Feast of the Annunciation, a single ray of sunlight through the church's window strikes the capital, illuminating the images of the Virgin and St. Gabriel.

We sleep tonight just across from the monastery in a small B&B beside the Camino. But not before Susan teaches yoga and then talks the waiter out of his T-shirt and Lynn wins the most blisters award. Oh, and if you haven't tried blood sausage, we found the restaurant for you.