Northern Spain and especially Galithia is home to the winter food storage structures known as Horrios. Built on legs to rise above rats and mice they vary from the basic rural to a more expressive form of displaying family wealth.

Just before Portomarín today we passed the 100km mark on the Camino, the minimum point from which anyone traveling to Santiago must walk in order to receive the Compostela. The Portomarín in which we will sleep tonight (and of course we had to climb a series of steps to get there) is not the Portomarín that pilgrims in the Middle Ages knew; that one lies below the waters of the reservoir we see beneath the bridge we cross, which was erected in 1960, by order of Franco. The village's impressive fortified church, built by the monk-knights of the Order of St. John in the 12th century, was disassembled stone by stone and moved up the hill to its present location, together with the balcony of the village's town hall and the Romanesque façade of the Church of St. Peter.

We bought food and had a fun pot luck in the Hotel lobby since everyone was too tired to go out. Somehow Lynn never got the pot luck memo....