At the half way point of our trip through Greece, I have these observations. The roads where we are traveling are very narrow and winding: not surprising. They are in lousy condition; the bus bumps and rolls constantly. Hotel bathrooms are very small, especially the showers. You can't flush toilet paper, even in Athens; it has to go in the wastebasket next to the toilet. Food is very cheap in tavernas and the portions are huge. House wines are good and dirt cheap (3 euros for 500ml). The Peloponnese peninsula is very mountainous and beautiful; a surprise. The water of the Aegean sea is an incredible blue and turquoise; just like in the travel posters and adverts.

Our Rick Steves tour continues to take us places that very few Americans not on his tours have ever seen. Today, we drove south of Kardimili to the little hidden hill town of Katania. It's claim to fame is a little 12th century Byzantine church with amazing frescoes and another Byzantine church of the 18th century which also features some nice frescoes, though not as high quality I would say.

The streets/ walkways in Katania are VERY steep, yet elderly ladies dressed in black (see photo) were still walking up and down them. They are covered in white designs to reflect moonlight because the town had no electricity until the mid 1970's! We went to a little cafe in town where Greek coffee (lots of sludge at the bottom of the cup, used to tell fortunes), fried dough and white cheese (it can only be called feta if it is goat and or sheep milk, no cow's milk) and walnut cake were served.

We continued south along the western side of the ridge of mountains running down the spine of the Mani peninsula and were amazed by the color of the sea (see photos) when we emerged at the gorge of Milonlangado at the town of Limeni. We had a seafood lunch there (red mullet and whole calamari with lots of sides)

After lunch, we drove west across the mountain ridge to the eastern shore of the Mani peninsula, then north to Monemvasia, a medieval town at the base of a huge towering rock island, much like a mini Rock of Gibralter (see photo).

Ioanna gave us a brief tour of Gefyra, the small town across the bridge from Monemvasia where our hotel is located (steep uphill walk from bridge level to hotel level.) We then had dinner on the shore in a little taverna. Had to eat inside as it is quite cool and breezy in the evening here in early October.

My "buddy" from DC broke her wrist 2 nights ago (undisplaced), but has decided to remain with us on tour.

Walked - 3.6 miles