Retirement Odyssey - Part 2

We left Monemvasia and drove to the "modern" city of Sparta. Nothing of the old militaristic city remains as it was abandoned in the 13th century. In 1834, king Otto, a fan of ancient Greek history, decided to reestablish a city on the ancient site, not surprisingly Bavarian in style.

After driving through Sparta, we reached nearby Mystra, a mountainous village crowned by a hillside that features five of the most wonderful late Byzantine (1200-1600) churches in Greece, each with amazing frescoes in varied stages of preservation.

Our bus dropped us off at the top of the site where we met George, our wonderful guide. His father was an Orthodox priest, so he has an amazing knowledge of the stories portrayed in the frescoes we viewed as we slowly worked our way down the sometimes slippery paths to the bottom of the site.

The middle church of Pantanassa is home to 6 very elderly nuns (see photo) who tend some lovely gardens around their convent church AND produce beautiful needlework which they sell to visitors. Proceeds go to social service agencies in Mystra. (we bought two colorful items.)

Our bus met us at the bottom of the hill, below the Cathedral of Mystra (built in 1270) and took us to lunch at a typical, non-touristed taverna in Sparta. We took a brief walk down the main commercial street and met the bus at the statue of King Leonidas, the Spartan hero who died with all of his army of 300 men, staving off the advance of a Persian army of many thousands.

Next, we concluded our travels in the pretty seaside town of Nafplio, the first capital of the new Greek Republic in the 1830's. We are staying in Pension Marianna, perched on the hillside overlooking the harbor, just below the imposing Palamidi Fortress, high on the hill top. This is the same place the E's stayed in 2011!

Once unpacked, we toured the city and ended up with a very informative wine (and ouzo) tasting with Dimitri Katronis. After the wine, cheese, olives and bread served to us at Dimitri's, we decided we only needed some simple souvlaki (chicken and veal) at Mitito Souvlaki to finish off the evening. It was a tough stair climb back to the pension.

Walked - 3.6 miles

stevenrdieterich

27 chapters

16 Apr 2020

A Mountainside of Churches

October 10, 2017

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Mystras, Sparta and Nafplio, Greece

We left Monemvasia and drove to the "modern" city of Sparta. Nothing of the old militaristic city remains as it was abandoned in the 13th century. In 1834, king Otto, a fan of ancient Greek history, decided to reestablish a city on the ancient site, not surprisingly Bavarian in style.

After driving through Sparta, we reached nearby Mystra, a mountainous village crowned by a hillside that features five of the most wonderful late Byzantine (1200-1600) churches in Greece, each with amazing frescoes in varied stages of preservation.

Our bus dropped us off at the top of the site where we met George, our wonderful guide. His father was an Orthodox priest, so he has an amazing knowledge of the stories portrayed in the frescoes we viewed as we slowly worked our way down the sometimes slippery paths to the bottom of the site.

The middle church of Pantanassa is home to 6 very elderly nuns (see photo) who tend some lovely gardens around their convent church AND produce beautiful needlework which they sell to visitors. Proceeds go to social service agencies in Mystra. (we bought two colorful items.)

Our bus met us at the bottom of the hill, below the Cathedral of Mystra (built in 1270) and took us to lunch at a typical, non-touristed taverna in Sparta. We took a brief walk down the main commercial street and met the bus at the statue of King Leonidas, the Spartan hero who died with all of his army of 300 men, staving off the advance of a Persian army of many thousands.

Next, we concluded our travels in the pretty seaside town of Nafplio, the first capital of the new Greek Republic in the 1830's. We are staying in Pension Marianna, perched on the hillside overlooking the harbor, just below the imposing Palamidi Fortress, high on the hill top. This is the same place the E's stayed in 2011!

Once unpacked, we toured the city and ended up with a very informative wine (and ouzo) tasting with Dimitri Katronis. After the wine, cheese, olives and bread served to us at Dimitri's, we decided we only needed some simple souvlaki (chicken and veal) at Mitito Souvlaki to finish off the evening. It was a tough stair climb back to the pension.

Walked - 3.6 miles

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