Week 4 in Paris

It’s rest time between engagements... that is lunch and Opéra Comique tonight.

As we walked this morning we came across this little tiled picture of George Picoteth - I’ll have to look him up. Quite delightful. Turns out he was a caricature artist, how interesting.

In 2008 and 2012 we went to Bar Huitres in rue Rasphail. For seafood lovers it is heaven, and this was James’ treat as I don’t seem to be able to eat shellfish in France (and oysters in America) but can still eat fish so I don’t totally miss out.

Still wow! The platter is two levels, with lobster, crab, oysters, prawns, razor clams, winkles, sea snails, baby prawns, scallops - I’m only jealous! I had a beautiful meal of entre: salmon and sea bass tartar, beautifully presented, followed by sea bass with an orange sauce, caramelised apple and eshallots. I had dessert I didn’t need, which included a small creme brûlée (alight when it came), mille feulle and coffee. A couple of glasses of Sancerre and were both a bit sleepy.

We thought after Berenice on Wednesday there was not room for more “amazing, fantastic, wow” but this surpassed everything. Orphee and Eurydice, a sombre subject at any time ... was still the same message about dying and the underworld but ... I can’t really do it justice: staging was modern, a huge slanted mirror (the size of the stage) that reflected a very simple but so effective set. The

voices, Orphee was played by a woman (wearing a wig and pants suit to look like a man) and did the majority of the singing: what a voice. Everyone was superb. The orchestra was stunning. Again a modern take on an old theme but so exciting and so well executed. Wonderful finale.

Saturday we took off early to go to Fontainebleau Hash. Another station experience at Gare de Lyon. Jean Baptiste picked us up and this time it was a forest run. They are such fun, this group and once again we were welcomed; well, actually we were made to feel like we just belonged. How good. We have made a new bunch of mates.

The forest is huge, and sits alongside another forest, Blois de Roi. We had a drink stop at the top of a hill and on top of a keep with 360 degree views.

A very fast double decker train back to Paris, about 45 minutes, and they go about 150kph.

A lovely dinner in an ‘eat street’ with friends from nearby at home, Ben and Ann and friends of theirs from Adelaide. A lot of fun. We hadn’t known about this area, in the 5th, but it is street after street - apparently one of the oldest eating areas in Paris. It was just buzzing. We walked home and know we’ll be going back.

Sunday back to the artist market. We farewelled mates Serge and Emmanuelle and bought a small Etude from Vero, my art teacher. She is so lovely, and gave me a lovely pin. The funny spaceship looking things are in a bathroom shop window - not sure if they are lights, or because they have spikes coming out the top you could drape your towel over them haha! We had a light bite to eat and headed home through Luxembourg Gardens. We stopped at the

Pétanque and watched for a while; it’s quite a set up and seemed competitive in a friendly way - probably 18 games going on.

As we wandered we came across little ponies for taking littlies on rides - how gorgeous they were. The snow/ice paintings are a series on the outside fence of Luxembourg Gardens giving a story on each and a message on climate change and global warming - hopefully someone is listening.

Home and a scratch dinner, as we just felt like staying in.

Well, another adventure... the Musée de Musique: except I forgot to look and guess what - it’s Monday, it’s closed (either happens Monday or Tuesday). The funny figures are a display in a window. Oh well, we had a sandwich and made our way back, got off the train at Gare Austerlitz and the green pillars are part of the tiles on the station and there are many of these. Quite beautiful. This was walking from the other side of Jardin des Plantes (such a beautiful spot), then going via Boulevard Saint Germain to pick up my painting and a couple of other things.

Tonight we are going back to the Saturday night street, rue Mouffetard. And her were are walking down the street and who appears ... Ben and Anne, Ann and Ray. So, we found a place, ate an (ordinary) meL but had fun anyway. How nice. We will see Ben and Anne back in Brisbane.

So ... time to start the packing, do ”stuff” enjoy some lunch, and then we went to a recommendation from one of our Fonty Hash friends, over their way near Montparnasse - and how good was it.

Amazing menu for 15 Euro - James had the family terrine- big enough

for the whole family; I had heated goats cheese that was beautiful as well. That was Entre: then lamb chops for me - real short loin, beautiful; and for James Flank Steak, his favourite. Dessert (not really needed and we ordered light - black current sorbet for me and yogurt with chestnut purée for James. Amazing, like our au Pied de Fouet.

Today, and this is IT. Final packing, washing, to the hairdresser, and now as we speak some ‘real’ champagne- Denis Frezier (highly recommend and they will send anywhere). Going to a local tonight - that’s as far as I can walk!! My final France blog will tell you about the meal, I’ll be too busy in the morning.

We are ready, early! So ... had a great meal and great company. Our host was terrific, gave us wines to try. We met a ‘woman of Europe’ - French, of English/German/Jewish descent and had great conversation. We drank ‘just enough’ haha and came home and finished off the Armangac - always good for a sound sleep.

I was going to do this differently however have now run out of time so I’ll just add here and maybe tidy up later.

The sights and sounds of Paris:
bookshops abound; seems like every street corner - and they are full of people browsing and buying. Wonderful sight. A lot of children’s books.
Driving would be a nightmare, but it works - a bit like India! They might growl and toot but not so much: make allowances for each other.
Because the streets are narrow people just wait (im)patiently if a car or trucks stop
Motorbikes and motorcycles weave in and out, scary but again it works!
Sirens are often, of one kind or another
We saw work being done on a 3rd floor apartment- there was a conveyor lift with a bin to take stuff up and bring down: must be how they get furniture in as well. Probably have to get permits (or not) to close part of the road, but people just waited and went around.
Another trolley system for taking up tools and materials. Doing work in narrow streets must be difficult.
There was some work done in our apartment complex. The gravel for the mix had been dropped outside on the street and they were quick to barrow it in and then one of the workers went out with a broom and shovel to clean it up on the street - and it was perfect!
The pissoirs are nearly all gone and there aren’t a lot of public toilets so men urinate against a wall - women cope, or have a coffee at a restaurant.
There are some beggars, no more than any other city. We saw a woman buy a small pizza for a guy instead of giving money - she looked like she explained it to him (or maybe asked if he was vegetarian). Good option.
There are charging places for electric cars and bikes.
Good jazz radio stations.
Paris is clean, generally. The gutters are washed, not sure where the water comes from - the worker cleaned as the water came.
So many restaurants, you wonder how they keep going: like everywhere some good some bad.
A good walking city; you might think you should take the metro but it’s easier and more interesting- and you don’t have to go up and down underground to change trains.
In all of the parks there are benches and chairs. French people love the sun and at lunchtime particularly you will see people sitting in the parks reading or devicing but generally making the most of the warmth before the long winter.
The rubbish system works like the country- in the apartment complex there is a rubbish room - rubbish, paper, plastic, glass.
Despite what people might say, Parisiennes are polite; you often hear ‘Merci beaucoup’. Always ‘bonjour Madame/Monsieur’.
Pharmacie- these often have the role of ‘docteur’. Qualified staff, not check out people. Always helpful.
Euro Millions (which we haven’t won as yet!) sold at the Tabac.