Saumur

We loved Saumur when we travelled in France in 2008 and a return was a definite in the planning. Driving into this part of the Loire is of course chateaux and wine. We stayed in an Aire (place for camping cars only, with power, water, dumping) next to the campground. James saw there was a Petit Train due so we got set up and went for a tour to reorientate ourselves - great idea. Not much has changed in ten years really.

We ate at the restaurant in the campground- and had the largest serving of haricot beans I’ve ever seen. And saw a sign for hiring a car quite cheaply so decided that with what we wanted to do around here and knowing the size of the streets it would be a good idea. And, it’s electric ??. The most beautiful sound, like a cello, when you change gears or brake.

We picked up our car at the campground and off we went ... wine tasting and to find the ‘pastilles’ for our chemical toilet (finding these has been the bane of our lives, it’s been so hard). The first “task” had priority of course and we quickly acknowledged the benefit of the small car as we went up one of those impossibly narrow streets you find here. Wrong way, oops, so along further and up a steep hill and into a courtyard where there was a lot of activity- it’s their prime time of picking and processing and different of course in each area and for each type of grape.

A very gracious man said to come on in, in his best French, so we went into the tasting room. Very ‘unflash’ and very old room. The wine was delicious (thanks to Janice Robertson, a wine writer James respects, who recommended) and we purchased some.

Off again and I won’t bore you with the numerous stops trying to buy these b... pastilles! Anyway, one place that seemed like a positive was closed for lunch - you get used to this, really! But through this we found a great restaurant so all turned out well.

It was in the middle of an industrial area, at a roundabout and there were lots of cars, so we decided that if the food looked ok this would be our main meal. In we went into what turned out to be the best value meal - people ranged from the ‘tradies’ to the managers.

We were seated and told that while there was red wine on the table we could have white or rose if we preferred, also still or gas water both of which were on the table too. There was an entre plate sitting on top of a dinner plate.

Over to the very large open shelved refrigerator about 2.5 m long and floor to ceiling high. Terrines, pâtés, salads mixed or displayed separately, coleslaw two kinds, boiled eggs, quarter avocados...

By the time we were back at the table there was the ever-present basket of bread. We were half way through our entre when the waitress came for our main course order - choices of steak, fish, tripe, hamburger and a couple of other things. Tripe for James (about which he is hooked and keen to eat again in a similar manner - which was not in white sauce) and I spotted a meal I liked the look of, which turned out a bit like a cottage pie. Salads with the meals. And large.

Then, cheese? An entre plate of wedges of about 5 cheeses arrived.

Then, dessert? Dessert of the day was a caramel cake, delicious!

You pay at the bar on the way out - 13.50 Euros each! Hard to believe really. Coffee is extra at 1.5E.

So back to the shop, now open ... no luck but a young man told us of another place and voila, we found it!!

That was enough for one day, success all round. We have a good supply of charcuterie so a drink and nibble was it for the day.

Relaxed the next morning we collected our little car again, that had been charged overnight - it gets about 250 km to the charge and there are charging stations everywhere. We have also ‘heard’ an electric motor scooter.

Off the another winery - now aren’t you surprised?! Yes, more wine ... and then on to Chinon, another medieval town and castle. You could get sick of these if they weren’t so interesting. We had looked at the grand castles last time and we’re into the less fancy and generally older this time.

Again we were pleased with our little car, and found a car space - the ‘truck’ wouldn’t have made it. What a delightful town. We wandered through the old city, just lovely old buildings- houses and shops - had coffee, found a bookshop, found a delightful shop: James spied some earrings. It is a collective of four women artists: jewellery, wooden articles, ceramics, mosaics. The earrings are gorgeous.

Then up the hill to the castle, how interesting. We climbed up towers and wandered around this large site. The views were lovely. We had lunch in a cafe tucked away amongst the trees: a lovely sandwich

and juice drink were perfect.

On our way home we called in at the castle at Saumur. In 2008 we couldn’t go in as it was having mass restoration works, so this was our chance to see it. Again, we climbed and wandered inside - quite a place and they have done a lot of work; we thought it all looked a bit new now and had lost a bit of the charm of the old: guess that’s what happens.

We parked near the bridges and walked into town to re-explore. Great bookshops again, something we have found across France. I took more photos for my ‘door’ series.

The mighty Loire is low and France needs rain.

The ‘man from La Plancha’ provided another delightful meal, accompanied of course by some of our delicious wine.

It is time to leave Saumur.