Paris Week 3 - Sainte Suzanne

Friday 5th, 3rd week in Paris - time is flying by.
We have been looking forward to this day - our return to Sainte Suzanne for the performance by our friend Annie André.

The train was at 2 pm so we had an early lunch at a place that looked fun: Jardin. Iron stands with lots of plants outside, quite large instead (seats 100) with more plants and flowers. It is run by an American couple who have lived in Paris 20 years, and the restaurant has been open 2 weeks. We each had a quiche and salad - yummy and huge!

Gare Montparnasse is huge, and if you don’t know the system (and even if you have used it once, like us) it is scary. We had prebooked online so had that done. There are 9 TGV lines - the ticket said lines 1 or 2 so that’s where we headed, fingers crossed. There are boards with a list of the trains and their numbers, and then the platform is added when it’s decided ... weird when you think of it, as the trains (that we have seen) run exactly on time. So you stand and wait and then there’s a rush to the train.

The TGV is 20 carriages. We got in the first class carriage we came to and found our seats. Comfortable, adjustable seats, pull down tray, footrest. We could well have been on the wrong carriage, that was something I didn’t check!

Left to the second on time, and gradually got up to speed - I think the photos are pretty good considering we were going at about 250kph.

Hardly any movement, though you can feel the pull when you go through a tunnel or pass another train, and your ears pop. An hour later we were in Le Mans and we walked and walked down the platform, wondered if we’d ever get there. It is longgggg.

Same system but not quite so hard, the TER to Evron. We made it in time. This train goes fast too, but there is a bit more movement. We arrived in Evron but no taxis. There was a protest happening though: the government (well, they are blamed) are taking away the person who ‘mans’ the station and the locals aren’t happy.

A women suggested we go to the Tabac as they would know about taxis. We had a cleansing ale first, ordered the taxi and off we went. It’s only 8 km to Sainte Suzanne. And our taxi driver will return tomorrow for the return trip. For each of us, there is a lovely feeling coming back.

Our B&B is beautiful- just gorgeous. We wandered up town to the cafe so we could drink my beer and see who was around. Etienne was there, and Jane at the shop knew we were coming and welcomed us. We gave her a bottle of Denis Frézier champagne to get cold - we had brought to share with Annie. Janine came by, and then what an excited and warm welcome by the girl herself. Big hugs, so lovely. Back to our accommodation. We had found out the restaurant at the Hotel was closed, and so was the other restaurant... a filled baguette was the go: pleased we had that big lunch!

The performance was held in the bookshop. The bookshop is located in the original school, and has been bought by a couple who run the bookshop and are doing up the school as their house. It is very old and needs a lot of work, however they don’t seem daunted. Everything had been pushed back and chairs set out - 60 of them -

and they were soon filled.

The performance: a one woman show about a woman reflecting on her life. She comes on as the older woman and talks about the good, bad, ugly, the highs and lows, the memories. The grey dreary dress of the older woman is over a nice red dress and comes off when she is talking about the memories of her younger years, and then goes back on again with the resignation that this was and is her life. It was written by a Canadian writer, a Québécois, and Annie has performed it 36 times. She said she changes her delivery depending on the audience.

The performance: formidable. It was in French but that didn’t matter to us - had both of us in tears it was so emotional. Annie’s delivery was powerful, emotional - happy and sad, confronting. An hour long. She is a fine actress. Entre to the show was shown as “un chapeau”. Stupidly I was thinking that was ‘wear a hat’, but it actually was ‘put money if you want in the hat’. Dah ... We hope she did really well.

After the show in the courtyard there was a ‘buffet’ - people had brought tartes etc, all sweet! Bubbles were on. Most people stayed; this would be one of those times when people get together and it might not happen too often.

About 11 pm it was time to go to Janine’s for champagne. Just as well I had my little torch attached to my handbag: this town turns off streetlights and there were no lights from houses. Black, very black, you see nothing. There were stars and we could see Mars, but no light.

Janine’s house, in the centre of town, is very old about 16th century. She has kept it well, it is comfortable, really nice furniture and a lovely feel. Her husband had died, I don’t know how long ago, but she is filling the void. She billets when there are festivals or other events, and I would say an important part of the community. She wants to stay in touch, glad about that.

She got out the champagne glasses - what a hoot! Someone had given her a dozen and she hated them. They are those flutes that we had in about the 80s. She was going to throw them away and then talked to a friend who works in ceramics and glass - what came back to her are colour glasses, slightly bent over: not enough to affect the liquid! Such a good talking point, so much fun - and she now loves them.

We had that bottle, and then another ... and at 1 am we left. Saying goodbye was deflected to talk about Skype and agree that we will speak both French and English. Why didn’t I take any photos??!!

And all of this, so serendipitous: if Annie hadn’t been looking after the shop at that time we were there we would not have met her (she lives 40km away), and none of this would have happened. Love it!

Did I say it was dark?? Unbelievable. Even though there were lots of stars it really was ‘can’t see your hand in front of you’. We crept in to Au Cote Jardin, took our shoes off for climbing the stairs. James was asleep in seconds, I was so excited by the whole night it took a bit longer.

We had said we’d have a 9 am breakfast so no sleep in ... and we awoke to a one of the low cloud fogs that we had when there previously. Breakfast with our hosts was lovely, typically French but with home made pasties and home made peach, fig and quince jams. We chatted for an hour - they do not speak English so it was challenging but I am really pleased with how I manage. I understand more and speak with more confidence.

Another walk around ‘my’ town, and we found a new area we hadn’t seen before. There was a market - a truck with charcuterie and a farmer with fruit and veggies.

We love this place. Nous reviendrons. And so the trek back to Paris. Taxi to Evron, TER to Le Mans, TGV to Paris - we’re experts now! So worthwhile taking this trip.