Travelling north from Koroni towards Kalamata and the road to Sparta over the Taiyetos Mountain range via the Langadha Pass.

Mount Taiyetos reaches a height of nearly 8000 feet and the drive through the pass is billed as one of the most dramatic in Greece. It's certainly the most spectacular road I've ever driven, hopefully the photos speak for themselves.

High in the mountains we stopped at the village of Artemesia for some refreshment. The only joint in town featured two Greek guys having a beer at a small table outside. The lady inside and her husband had a smattering of English between them and we managed to order two frappe's without a problem. When offered homemade marmalade we accepted and asked for toast to go with it. Now usually in Greece toast means a ham and cheese toastie and this probably accounts for the puzzled looks all around. Anyway lost in the translation we finished up with said ham and cheese toastie each and a pot of the most delicious cherry preserve which we duly scoffed along with the toastie. The lady vowed to try this combination for her breakfast the next day. So if you see a ham and cheese toastie with cherry preserve on Saturday Morning Kitchen you heard it here first! Needless to say we bought a jar to take with us.