Costa Rica

Unlike Croatia, this trip was totally my idea. I wanted to go on a zip line, see the monkeys and – the biggest attraction –to see all 850 species of birds. I'd seen stunningly beautiful pictures of the country and it certainly didn't disappoint. Gorgeous green mountains, a volcano, rainforests and beautiful beaches. The beauty of the country was matched only by its people. Everyone was helpful and kind – truly wonderful people. And, yes the young men were delightful to look at as well.

Young Costa Rican men are quite attractive. Trim and fit, dark skin and perfect white teeth that blossomed frequently into

engaging smiles. However, something happens between the ages of 30 and 50 to these young gods. Since I saw no one between 30 and 50 years old. I'm not sure what exactly occurs. But, wherever they go they've sent them back with wrinkled skin aged beyond their years, pot bellies and they've lost the come-hither look in their eyes. They might want to come to America where men seem to get better looking with age. They'd be drop dead gorgeous at 60!

Adventure Awaits.
The zip line was the craziest thing ever dreamed up. Why would someone string cables over forests, hook up people with a couple of attachments and push them off platforms to go zipping along at 40 MPH in mid air? Crazier still – who would actual pay money to do it? ME!!! Despite some last minute doubts, it was undeniably a fantastic adventure. It was thrilling and amazing. And SUPER FUN!

Driving is also a huge adventure sport in Costa Rica. Much more on that to come.

One of the biggest lures is the incredible amount of wildlife roaming the country. To see toucans outside the hotel window blew my mind. Monkeys could be heard from miles away. And, eyes needed to be constantly pealed for iguanas.

Go WILD!
With over 850 different birds in Costa Rica, a girl could go crazy trying to find them all. Having spotted only 26 "birds of interest" – or only 3% – I'll need to go back at least a couple more times. The trip to Carrara was one of the major highlights for me. Although the scarlet macaws weren't just sitting in the trees patiently waiting for me to take their picture, I did see them flying overhead. But our guide, Andres, found lots of interesting birds including toucans, trojons, squirrel cuckoos, roseate spoonbill, great grey heron and many more. George patiently played along and even spotted some herself. But, I could hear her thinking loudly to herself "I'd rather be running."

We didn't really need a tour guide to point out the "snakes with legs", or iguanas, as they call them. They pop out of nowhere and every time you see one it's at least 10% bigger than the last one. If I'd been there much longer, they've have grown to the size of crocodiles.

Cute little Jose at Manuel Antonio Park helped us find the monkeys. Groups of capuchin (white-faced monkeys) would play in the trees right over our heads. And, though we did see the back end of a howler monkey, I think I'd rather remember him for his resonant howling throughout the country than the view he offered from his perch in the tree.

George displayed more patience than I've ever seen in a zoo-like environment at the butterfly garden where she went on a relentless mission to capture a photo of the blue morph butterfly. But she got it. Note to 'lil friends: And you think I'm stubborn?

Would You Like Fruit with That?
Good thing I didn't go for the food! To be fair, I ended up eating a lot at the hotels which probably wasn't the best available. Be that as it may, the fruit was plentiful.
Sweet plantains: Skip those and go for fried or plantain chips.
Coffee: Not so good straight up unless you're a coffee lover. But the icy cold coffee drink with banana and chocolate was tasty.
Dulce de leche: YAY!!! Pots de creme or alfajores (caramel filled cookies). Bring 'em ON!!!
Chocolate? Apparently it's been banned.

Tres leches cake: One GREAT! One not so good. Even odds.
Fruits: LOVE the guava jelly! A tasty treat. Pineapple/watermelon/cantaloupe is served with everything! Cas juice and guanabana juice were both hits with George. At one point, we had a whole rainbow of juices on our breakfast table: orange blackberry, green (cas) and white (guanabana). Very pretty!

Show Me the Way.
I know there's a major sign shortage in Costa Rica, but here's something the Costa Rican Board of Tourism and Transportation doesn't seem to understand. We know there are curves ahead in the road. Take those signs and convert them into something useful. Useful is defined as:
Location: What town am I in???
Road info: What road am I on???
Direction: Where am I going and how do I get there???

Not that they aren't attempting on rare occasion to provide direction. Literally within yards of each other, signs will read:
Mt Arenal 58
Mt Arenal 67
Mt Arenal 46
I coin this phenomenon as "Sign Clusterfuck."

Orange signs are also plentiful in Costa Rica. Here, they mean "something bad is going to happen. Undoubtedly having to do with a bridge." More on bridges later.

Uh Oh. I Killed It.
You never know what's around the next curve. So, when George announced, "Uh oh. I killed it." one day, it could have been any of the following things in the road.
- School children
- Bikers
- Biking school children
- A herd of goats
- Very large cows
- Pedestrians
- A horse
- School children with a herd of goats, large cows or a horse
- Dogs running wild – often with school children
- An oxcart with oxen

What a relief to find out it was only an iguana. They have millions of those, right? Unless it was a green one. Those are rare. It wasn't green was it, George? I never saw it so I don't know. Was it green????
Bridges.
I have a newfound fear of bridges. Construction of bridges must be a self-taught business in Costa Rica. Anyone can do it.
1. Take a couple of boars or railroad ties and staple or glue them together.
2. Don't bother with railings. That's a waste of staples and/or glue.
3. Make them wide enough for only one car at a time. (We got the same deal on "Ceda/Yield signs" as we did on "Curve" signs and we can use them up here!)

George promised to "carry me" on Spanish. Oddly enough, we most needed her expertise when it came to bridges. One of the many orange signs read, "Puenta es mal estado." When I asked George if she knew what it means she grimly nodded. "Bridge is in bad repair." Oh. HUGE surprise.

And, one day, as we're cruising along, our road comes to an abrupt end in front of the most beautiful bridge I've ever seen. A large, sturdy, steel contraption blocked off from traffic. Why use this one when there are plenty more made from staples and glue?

In front of the bridge was a young man who was out "walking his cows." He wanted to help and rattled off a stream of Spanish to set up straight. At this point, I realized George may be able to speak some Spanish but the hard part was understanding it. Later, I asked if she'd understood anything he said. She replied, "He wanted us to go back and take the bridge on the right. Or else he told us to go and find the right bridge. And, I think he told me to go away and leave him and his cattle in peace." Or something like that...

'Lil Friends.
We met so many nice people on our travels and without the assistance from some of them we may still be traveling. Here are a few of them who made the trip special.

Armando: "Armando and his map," as we came to refer to him. He was our waiter in Mt. Arenal and upon learning we intended to drive around the lake and down the coast to his hometown of Jaco emphatically insisted, "You must go back. You MUST!! I'll draw you a map." Of course, the map included a secret shortcut which could only be found by stopping in Espartza and asking directions. If you know when you've arrived in Espartza, that would help!. He was a dear and very helpful.

Willie: (and Wy). Wild Willie was the lead instructor on the zip line. He swang from the cable like a monkey and yelled like Tarzan. Together, he and his partner Wy, made an amazing adventure absolutely unforgettable. Thank you!

Millie: One of the few women we met along the way and an absolute sweetheart. She led us on a tour through the mangroves.

Andres: He's my hero just for finding so many birds on our tour of Carrara. All of the guides were so knowledgeable and

helpful. And patient.

Jose: A cute, young boy – rail thin –whose afro weighed more than he did. And gorgeous eyes. He was a real cuite and helped us find monkeys in Manuel Antonio.

But, there were so many more that we met along the way – most of whose names I do not know – who were invaluable to us in our journey. Thanks to all of those who provided guidance in our time of need including the gas station attendants, the hotel manager, the kind folks at the tiny grocery and the women who pointed the way to San Ramon.

Thanks also to cute Aruad in the tour guide office and Ana Maria in the restaurant at San Jose. It was a pleasure!

And, especially to the young man with the cows by the bridge. THANK YOU for trying to help us with such passion and conviction. We may not have understood your words, but the message was clear!!

Mucha gracias, mi amigos for sharing your beautiful country with us. You truly represented the best of Costa Rica through your kinds words and deeds! And, whether we know your names or not, you not be forgotten!. Adios...for now.

Best and Worst.
Biggest surprise:
C - No middle-aged people
G - Hilly terrain

Best of Costa Rica:
C - Eco tourism
G - Natural resources

Worst of Costa Rica:
C/G - Driving roads with no directions

Worst Driving Experiences:
- bridge detour
- first day to Fortuna
- road to San Mateo
- driving through San Mateo
- driving wrong way in Fortuna
- Sarchi circles

Best foods:
C - guava jelly, orange/coconut drink, mushroom empanadas, tres leches cakes, pots de creme
G - sopas de clamos, guava jelly, coffee drink, alfajores, casada

Worst foods:
C & G - sweet plantains, Mexican buffet, brownie
C - breakfast empanada
G - fruit of love, sugared fig

Would never do again:
C - walk hanging bridges at 2 p.m.
G - rent car without GPS

Would do again tomorrow:
C & G - zip line!!!

Favorite animal/bird:
C - monkey
G - roseate spoonbill

Favorite 'lil friend:
C - Armando with a map
G - WIllie

Biggest disappointment
C - didn't see scarlet macaws up close
G - lava was on the wrong side of the volcano - couldn't see it

Favorite birds:
C - toucan, roseate spoonbill, trogon, squirrel cuckoo, scarlet macaw
G - toucan, roseate spoonbill, scarlet macaw, stork, quetzal

Wish I could have done:
C - seen a quetzal
G - coffee plantation tour