Croatia

Eager Anticipation.
I had dreaded the trip to Croatia for a long time and for a lot of reasons. Going to a war-torn location was certainly not my first choice and the long flight sounded dreadful. I told everyone that Matt Lauer had left a long time ago, but they still wanted to go. So off we go "on holiday: to Croatia.

After laboring over packing to ensure I was following all the rules – the Tab was safely tucked in the stowed luggage – I was immediately apprehended for liquid in my carry on. But I had to wonder what was accomplished by simply discarding my hand cleaner. I guess they can identify the "real hand cleanser terrorists" in some other fashion. I'll check the Homeland Security documentation as soon as I get home for details.

Probably of greater concern are the new NWA flight options. Upon entering the gate, everyone was asked if London was their final destination. "Yes" I replied and was then asked "All of you?" Dear God I hope so. I know our friends at Northwest aren't happy these days, but what hideous alternatives could they be suggesting? Don't want to know.

Once "safely" onboard my main concern was my inability to sleep on the plane. George had continually reassured me in the months leading up to the trip that I would be well taken care of. Lindsey – our flight companion – is a Nurse Practitioner and George is a CCNS. Both have prescription privileges. And for a sleep aid...I get Benadryl? Can't anyone get that? Hmmmm..... I bet they brought lots of Band-Aids as well.

European Entry.
London can best be described as having an interesting dynamic. Partly regal, royal and grand. Partly trend sophisticated and cutting edge. Mostly....loony.

Take their signs, for instance. I read the hotel elevator sign "Maximum 2 persons or 1 person with their luggage." as the porter eagerly closed the door on George, Lindsey and me. The sign in the hotel directed, "If you discover a fire..." Sounds like a treasure hunt to me. Ready. Set...

Once I discover my fire I'll just look for the nearest "Way Out" sign.

Contradictions.
A. Oh my God – the taxis are so cute in London! They look like keystone cop cars. Mostly black, but some in bright pink! They're so adorable all lined up outside Victoria Station.
B. Where the HELL are all the adorable taxis that are supposed to be lined up outside Victoria Station???? I HATE London taxis.

A. I know London doesn't have a great culinary reputation, but how can you ruin pancakes? These pancakes are so rubbery they'll be bouncing around in my stomach for days.
B. I don't believe I'll EVER have a better pancake in my entire life than the one at Claridge's in London. They looked disarmingly like the airport pancake, but couldn't have been more opposite. Covered with mixed berries, maple syrup and a heavenly concoction called clotted cream. I could weep for joy! I LOVE London pancakes.

Buildings. All Kinds.
It's funny how sometimes the things you look forward to the most don't live up to expectations. But other things surprise you in reverse.

I most wanted to see Buckingham Palace and Harrods. The first had way too few people at it and the second had far too many. The guards and their red uniforms appear to be a fairy tale. And Harrods appears to be a disaster! It's like Macy's on speed! I never thought I could be overwhelmed by shopping.

But what I thought would be simply a clock was in fact amazing! Big Ben is beautiful. In fact, George thought it equally as stunning as the Grand Canyon based on the number of pictures she took of it.

Taxis Revisited.
They drive like crazy people. What do they think the lanes are for? Every rides was an adventure. On the third or fourth occasion when a bus pulled in front of the cab and nearly killed us, the driver remarked, "The way they drive! I'm gob smacked." Gob smacked indeed! I couldn't agree more about "the lot of you".

The Real Holiday Begins.
Approaching Dubrovnik through the stone tunnel took my breath away. Reading about the walled city – and even seeing pictures of it – doesn't begin to do justice to the reality. To be in a place this old with such rich history is unimaginable for a N.D. farm girl. We're so distanced in America from everything with this many memories and stories behind it. I wonder if people from Europe enjoy a refreshing change of pace when visiting America. I hope they do so when they get back home they realize the beauty of both worlds.

The Disney Effect.
Part of the problem with coming from the U.S. is that we're used to "created entertainment". Theme parks, theme restaurants – it's all built for the sole purpose of amusing our little minds. And, sadly, I can't stop thinking every time I step into the Old Town that I'm in Epcot Dubrovnik. Reality seeps in at the food market and on the wharf where native Croatians plead with you to "just take a look" or hold out sample of figs for us to taste – desperate to have us make a purchase.

Touring the Old Town with Paula puts things in perspective. She details the country's history, points out the best pizza and coral shops and places to explore. She's such a sweet person

and a wonderful introduction to the country and its people.

I'm still a little unclear after the tour about the war. I asked Lindsey and George about it later that night. Lindsey explained it to me quite clearly. I may still have some of the details wrong, but basically: The war was "started by stupid people for stupid reasons because they stupidly believed that other believed in stupid things and stupidity should be ended with stupid violence by stupid men." Okay. Now I understand. I was just being stupid.

The Fabulous Orange Hotel.
The hotel is gorgeous – orange and yellow walls with orange furniture. There's a balcony with a view of Old Town and the sea.

Every morning for breakfast I have mini chocolate croissants and little hot dogs (sausages) and three mornings I enjoyed them with a Tab over ice. Heaven!

We all decide to take advantage of the spa one afternoon. George gets a pedicure but thinks her feet are better suited to running than showing off pink nails. Lindsey and I had massages. Mine was a hot stone massage. The stones were smooth and felt wonderful after being heated in the water. Unfortunately, I discovered I'm still ticklish and offended my poor massage therapist by giggling. Oops!

I think the war may still be going on because I hear the incoming missiles every night. Lindsey hears them, too. But no problem. I know exactly what to do. Right outside the hotel is a sign for the "Evacuation Assembly Point." Great. Good to know.

I'm going to add this to the list of things to look for:
1. Always make sure there's toilet paper before using the public restroom.
2. Look both ways before crossing the street.*
3. Know where the Evacuation Assembly Points are when checking into a hotel.
*This is not necessary in London where they write in large block letters on the road "Look left" or "Look right". They like signs – whether they make sense or not. These are actually helpful and have probably saved many a tourist from death by taxi.

What Goes Up Must Come Down.
We set out to walk the wall early in the morning before it gets too crowded or too hot. The walk is over a mile long and

encircled the Old Town. There are stunning views of both the sea and the town along the way. And we got some cool photos taken through holes or "windows" in the wall of the city. But there were a lot of stairs involved!

I, of course, would have whined more except for the old man with the cane God sent as a messenger to me. And, if that wasn't enough of a message in itself, George would have continually reminded me of it as needed. As hard as it was for me going up – Lindsey had to face her fears coming down. On the last section up to the highest point there was an open staircase. Lindsey needed to sit down and "butt-walk" her way down. So, in summary, I had to drag my sorry ass all the way up the stairs and Lindsey had to drag hers down.

Crabby Croatian Cats.
There are cats (and dogs) running around the street everywhere! Some of them don't look very healthy. Others have collars and appear well. All of them have "cattitude." Lindsey tries to befriend them all with little success. Except for Ralph – my new little friend from Miet. We have some great pictures of cats sleeping and one of Ralph. I think Lindsey has lot more.

Cheers!
Everyone was disappointed we couldn't ship wine back. That was part of the trip's allure – great Croatian wine. And, we were so hungover from lack of sleep the first few days that we didn't start testing it until later. I had a perfect glass at Proto. But the best overall experience was the last evening in Croatia.

My order was light, dry, crisp and white. Lindsey asked for heavy, strong, red. The wine came in a little pitcher and we were surprised to receive so much. Lindsey took her first sip and declared, "This wine is WEAK!" That's why they give you so much!"

A few sips later, Lindsey is giggling about how wrong she was and how the wine is going to her head. Later still, she's taking 42 pictures of the menu. After that, she figured she might as

well finish off my glass as well. Sleep well...

Foods for Thought.
Dalmation ham: We had a sandwich for lunch almost every day. Or served as an appetizer with Pag cheese.
Mea Culpa pizza: Pizza with ham, cheese and mushrooms. The best I've ever had although it's really hard to say why.
Figs: I "explored" figs for my friend, Claire. They're covered with slim when you peel them fresh. Kind of gross.

Final Thoughts.
Overall, it was a great trip and I'm glad I went. My favorite part, of course, if telling everyone the story of how much I didn't want to go. One of my other favorites stories is how much fun I had shopping for a tie for Lindsey's friend. It had to be the right

color, length, color, texture, color and quality. Oh. WAIT. Did I forget to mention he's color blind?

We all have other great souvenirs as well – coral jewelry, stitched linens and hundreds of photos. Mostly, we'll have the memories of good times spent in good company.

It was fun sharing the best and worst (although they were sometimes hard to come up with) parts of each others day over dinner each evening. It made me think about the experience from my perspective and from my companion's as well. Thanks for playing – looking forward to Greece!
Best and Worst.
Best Foods:
Carol: Mea culpa pizza, chocolate pancakes with ice cream, bread & oil, wine at Proto, pancakes with berries & clotted cream/hot chocolate (Runners up: chocolate croissant, pistachio ball)
George: Mea culpa pizza, scallops at Gordon Ramsey, break & oil, lunch at Miet – fish pate, ham and cheese, veg sandwich at festival (Runners up: cherries and ice cream, fish soup and pistachio ball)
Lindsey: Dalmation ham, Gordon Ramsey fish and banana dessert, mea culpa pizza, festival ham sandwich

Worst foods:
George/Carol: Miet buffet, cottage cheese, fresh fig, airplane sandwich, dried weeds and airport pancakes
Lindsey: Mackeral, Miet buffet, breaded artichoke, cottage cheese, risotto

Best restaurant:
George/Lindsey: Gordon Ramsey
Carol: Cafe @ Miet

Biggest surprise:
Carol: Epcot Dubrovnik
George: Everybody speaks English and barren mountains
Lindsey: How expensive London is

Biggest disappointment:
George/Carol: no trip to park
George/Lindsey: couldn't ship wine

Best souvenir:
Carol: coral bracelet
George: pictures
Lindsey: coral ring

Best of Croatia:
Carol: people
George: history/tranquility

Worst of Croatia:
Carol: smells
George: beach was too pebbly
Lindsey: agonizing over the tie