Like a God in Utrecht: Cruising along the Vecht

What happens when you spend three days exploring Utrecht with a car and a baby? Zoë discovered the region’s hidden gems, starting in the Zuilen district of Utrecht, where she visited the castle of the famous feminist Belle van Zuylen. She then left the city to explore the Vecht River, admiring the villas and estates of noble families. The trip concluded in De Kromme Rijn, a region with landscapes that could be the most stunning in the Netherlands. Today’s journey focuses on part two: Cruising Along the Vecht.

Loenen aan de Vecht

Today, I leave Utrecht city and drive to the Vecht, widely regarded as the most beautiful river in the Netherlands. Within 45 minutes, I’m strolling through the quaint village of Loenen aan de Vecht, with my baby asleep in a carrier. It’s Ascension Day, and the streets are tranquil. Vacation seems to live here, and so does the sun. As I savor an ice cream, I watch cyclists cross bridges and boats drift below. Houses with names like Vrederust (Peaceful Rest) feature tall windows that reveal Instagram-worthy kitchens and lush gardens by the water. In one such garden, a man playfully tosses a child over his shoulder—it’s impossible not to imagine the joy of living here.

Playhouses and Tea Pavilions

In the afternoon, I step onto an antique saloon boat from Rederij De Kampioen. Captain Harry guides us along the Vecht, showing off its scenic charm. We pass gardens with playhouses and tea pavilions. “There used to be 300 tea houses along this river,” Harry explains. “Tea was incredibly expensive, reserved for the nobility, and they loved showing off their status. These pavilions were social hotspots where people came to see and be seen.”

The Vecht was once a hub of activity, with much of its traffic taking place on the river. Since it was home to the highest nobility, it was also one of the most expensive waterways to navigate. “You had to pay tolls everywhere. There was even a saying: ‘Sailing the Vecht? Better keep your wallet on deck!’”

^{Foto: Kapitein Harry / Zoë de Goede}

The Secret of Queen Wilhelmina

A large white house on a river bend catches our attention. “This was Queen Wilhelmina’s country retreat,” Harry reveals. “She came here to paint and escape the public eye, and the locals kept her visits a secret.” In the garden stands a towering swamp oak, planted to mark the birth of Queen Juliana. We pass Huize Rupelmonde, its name etched in lead above the water gate. “This was once the front entrance of the house, as many estates were built to face the water. Visitors would arrive by boat and enter through these gates.” On the roof, bronze statues of Neptune and Mercury symbolize the family’s wealth, derived from trade and seafaring through the Dutch East India Company.

^{Foto: Huize Rupelmonde / Zoë de Goede}

Nyenrode Castle

The sun dips behind a cloud, and willow trees graze the water. We glide past the Pesthuis (Plague House), which served as a hospital during outbreaks of the plague, and the Sterrenschans, a historical star-shaped fortress. We also see Hotel Flora Batava, where a wealthy botanist once planted Europe’s first banana and pineapple trees. “Even today, this area is home to Dutch nobility,” Harry remarks, “and, of course, celebrities. André Hazes, the famous singer, used to live in that house, and later his son lived there too.”

As we approach Breukelen, the bells of Nyenrode Castle ring out. “I ordered that, just for you,” Harry jokes with a grin.

On the return journey, we pass a former boarding school for officers’ children, now a women’s prison. “Sometimes the inmates ask me for a beer,” Harry says with a chuckle. “But before noon, I only offer coffee.” As the boat docks, Harry heads home, and we continue our journey into the green heart of Utrecht.

^{Foto: Ton van der Velden / Unsplash}

Practical Information

• A 90-minute cruise with Rederij De Kampioen costs €26.50. Check out their winter cruises, which include authentic Dutch pea soup.
• Loenen aan de Vecht is small but charming. Parking is available on the village outskirts.
• For the best ice cream, visit Marché ’t Amsterdammetje.
• If you have extra time, don’t miss Kasteel de Haar.
• Planning a trip to the Vecht region? Find everything you need to know here.

^{Foto: Kasteel ter Haar / Martti Salmi / Unsplash}

This article was created in collaboration with Visit Utrecht Region. For more travel inspiration for your stay in the Utrecht area, visit their website.