Hidden gem in Utrecht: De Kromme Rijn

What happens when you spend three days driving through Utrecht with a car and a baby? Zoë uncovered the most stunning spots, starting in the Utrecht district of Zuilen, where she visited the castle of the famous feminist Belle van Zuylen. Leaving the city behind, she explored the River Vecht, admiring the mansions and estates of noble families. She ended her road trip in De Kromme Rijn, an area boasting what may be the most beautiful landscapes in the Netherlands. Today, we delve into Part III: De Kromme Rijn.

I had heard murmurs about De Kromme Rijn before. The walk along the Kromme Rijn Path, from Utrecht City to De Kromme Rijn, is said to be the most beautiful in the Netherlands. It’s a place where birds sing differently and asparagus tastes better—just a 30-minute drive from Utrecht’s center. I needed to see it to believe it.

B&B De Vogelpoel

When I arrive at B&B De Vogelpoel, nestled along De Kromme Rijn, an alpaca has just been born. Evy bottle-feeds the newborn while my little one swings gently in a large hammock. Max and Evy live here in an apartment, spending their day shearing the alpacas, who now look comically bare. They use the wool to create duvets. “The adrenaline probably triggered the birth,” Max proudly explains. The next morning, all the guests gather to feed the alpacas. The owner’s four-year-old daughter hands out the buckets, taking a moment to meet the newest member of the herd.

The walls of Duurstede

Driving through De Kromme Rijn feels like living a dream in rural France. You wind between sunlit meadows, weeping willows dipping into the water, and children feeding cows. At every turn, signs direct you to fresh strawberries and asparagus straight from the farms.

With guide Amy, I explore the charming town of Wijk bij Duurstede. Mothers with children greet each other at the water pump. “We’re a city with a village feel,” Amy tells me. She shows me where believers scraped pieces from the church walls, believing in the stone’s healing properties. We wander through alleys and past community gardens, crossing paths with a man carrying a tree on his shoulder. Finally, we reach Duurstede Castle, a relic from the 15th century.

We stroll through the Wijkse Bos, following a path that circles the castle’s moat. “The walls are two meters thick,” Amy explains, holding Fëanor so I can take notes. “Stones from Slot Zuylen were even transported here by horse and cart.” From there, we find ourselves at the harbor, where a replica Viking ship floats in the water. True to its village-city charm, all roads in Wijk bij Duurstede lead to the church.

The Cherry Museum

As our road trip nears its end, there’s one last stop: the Cherry Museum. A trip to De Kromme Rijn isn’t complete without tasting its cherries. Although we came in the off-season, we immerse ourselves in the cherry culture by learning “cherry language” and exploring its history.

Inside the museum’s barn, I discover antique tools like a chamber pot, a bagging hook, and even an old-fashioned tractor. I listen to barroom conversations in tiny glasses and attend a mock auction. Though I can’t enjoy cherry juice this time, I leave with a bag of farm-fresh groceries. And those asparagus? They’re unlike anything I’ve ever tasted.

Practical Information

• Stay: Book your spot at B&B De Vogelpoel
• Tours: At the tourist office you can book a guide for a tour of Wijk bij Duurstede.
• Hiking: The most beautiful walk in the Netherlands runs along the Kromme Rijn path, from Utrecht Centrum to Duurstede. View the entire route.
• Adventure: Or take a trip in a real Viking ship .  
• Cherries: Fancy some cherries? Visit the Cherry Museum , or skip the museum and go straight to the farm shop to feast.
• Do you also want to go to the Utrecht Region? Here you can find more information.
• More information about the Kromme Rijnstreek

This article was created in collaboration with Visit Utrecht Region.