The Rota Vicentina is a relatively new 450-kilometer hiking route through the southwest of Portugal, consisting of two routes that are further divided into various sections: the Fisherman's Trail and the Historical Way. Two years ago, the fully marked paths were officially opened: along the Vicentina coast and through the historic interior. The idea is to promote sustainable tourism by connecting local entrepreneurs to the trail.
I plow through sandy paths, through wild vegetation and small streams. Ahead of me walks Rudolfo, who is wildly hacking around with a machete. 'Those cursed acacias!' he exclaims. The acacia is a plant species from Australia, which was once introduced here because of its beautiful yellow flowers. However, the acacia thrives here so well that it spreads like wildfire, overgrowing and eradicating all endemic plants. 'No stopping them now,' says Rudolfo as he pulls out another acacia with roots and all from the ground.
While the weather is warm and mild today, the sea is wild. Meter-high waves crash forcefully back into the sea, then roll out long before bursting against the cliffs. On some cliffs, we see large abandoned nests. 'From storks,' says Rudolfo. The nests are now deserted, but in the spring, they are filled with their young. Together with Rudolfo, I peer down. 'I love it when the sea is this wild,' he says. 'As if Mother Nature wants to show just how powerful she is.'
We hike a 6.5-kilometer stretch between Odeceixe and Zambujeiro do Mar, passing countless beaches. 'That's my favorite spot for fishing,' points out Rudolfo. 'But you wouldn't want to try it now. The sea would sweep you away.' You can hike here all year round. 'Scotland in the summer is Portugal in the winter,' laughs my hiking partner. Rudolfo is from Switzerland but has been living in Portugal for thirty years and is a co-founder of the Rota Vicentina.
With the opening of the Rota Vicentina, a forgotten part of Alentejo has been brought back to life. Volunteers ensure the preservation of the trails and untouched nature, while the people of Alentejo ensure that the hikers are warmly welcomed everywhere. Stay in rural hotels, such as Herdade do Touril, and hike for hours without encountering anyone: you practically have the trails to yourself now.
I wrote this article commissioned by National Geographic Traveler when I traveled to the Portuguese region of Alentejo as a digital nomad in 2014. Want to know more about this hiking route? Read on the Rota Vicentina website >
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