Siena: The Contrade and the Palio

Ironically, I wasn't meant to be here. I was meant to be in Florence, and in April. But when I broke my ankle, everything was pushed back a month and rearranged. So when I was in Catania and trying to book an Airbnb for Florence in June, there was nothing available at a reasonable price--it is high season in June, and Florence is fully booked. I looked around at nearby towns, thinking at least I could be near Florence, and do day trips around Tuscany. Of course I'd heard about Siena and I chose a little Airbnb for a reasonable price. When I told my Catanian host about it, he said, "Oh, you'll be there for the Palio!" The what? I had no idea what I was in for.

A bit of background
While Florence is famous for its Renaissance art and architecture (thanks largely to the Medici influence and wealth), many of the towns around it stayed firmly planted in their Medieval roots. Siena is one of those. For hundreds of years Florence and Siena fought each other as city states, before Italy became a Republic. Florence eventually won, and built a fortress ("fortezza") inside Siena's walls to assert their dominance. One of the first things I learned when I arrived in Siena was that the people over time had transformed that fortress into a city park, even melting down the metal of the weapons to use it for the park. Today it is a place to stroll in the shade, work out on outdoor exercise equipment, take your kids to the playground, or watch outdoor concerts or movies in the ampthitheatre. To me this is a beautiful example of the character of the Senese people. They are people of love and community.

The Contrade
Within the walls of the city centre, there are 17 neighbourhoods, or Contrade. Outside of the walls the city has grown, but the Contrade are only inside of the original gates. Each Contrada is clearly geographically defined by its own streets, and each one is self-governing with its own regulations, community centre, and leadership. They are like little sub-communities within the larger community. You are born into your Contrada by family and/or by the geography of where you grow up. These communities are so tightly knit that it doesn't matter whether you are rich or poor, young or old, or what your lot in life may be. Your Contrada is your family, and will take care of you accordingly. The children are raised into the traditions, and the young people are actively involved, including volunteering and participating in the ceremonies and dinners. For this reason, Siena is one of the safest and lowest crime cities in Europe (or so I've read). Everyone belongs. Everyone knows everyone. If you have a need, your Contrada will take care of you.

My Airbnb host--Alessandro--is from the Torre (Tower) Contrada, which is located directly behind the city's famous Tower and the Campo, which is the main Piazza, and also where the Palio is run. Because I have been living in a Torre household for the past month and because Alessandro has been the most amazing host, I am of course loyal to the Torre. :)

The Palio
Sometime in the mid 1500s, the Contrade started a horse race. I don't really know how it started but they have been running it continuously for 700 years! There have only been a handful of years when it didn't run, including the past 2 due to covid. Each race, 10 of the Contrade run--only 10 because 17 would be too many for the track. The 7 that don't run one are guaranteed spots for next, and the 3 other spots are determined by draw. There are in fact two races each year, July 2 and August 16. Because loyalties to one's Contrada run so deep, rivalries also run deep. In fact, some Contrade are sworn enemies, and some are historically allies. There are also stories of back-room deals, betrayals, and payoffs.

Luckily this year, our nemesis Oca (Goose) was not running against us. :D

This round, the 10 racing were Torre (Tower), Istrice (Porcupine), Civitta (Owl), Pantera (Panther), Leocorno (Unicorn), Chiocciola (Snail), Bruco (Caterpillar), Drago (Dragon), Lupa (She-wolf), and Valdimontone (Ram).

The Campo is a large piazza that can hold 20,000 people, but the shape of it is a bit awkward for racing horses. There are two sharp corners that they have to navigate, one going downhill and one going up. For this reason it can be a little dangerous, and over the 700 years there have been injuries to the horses and jockeys. To make matters even worse, the jockeys ride bareback, meaning that they can (and do) fall off. However, if the jockey falls off and the horse keeps running, the horse is the most important--the horse can win even without the jockey!

Nevertheless, because of the risk to the horses, there have been in more modern times some calls to end the Palio. Instead, the City has implemented more precautions to protect the horses. For example, they have attempted to soften the corners, they have started using mixed breed horses instead of purebreds (mixed breeds don't get injured as easily, apparently), and some other things. More pertinent to this year's race, as we'll see momentarily, they've started being more cautious about allowing horses to race when there is even a chance of injury.

Gearing up for the Race
Being here for the weeks leading up to the Palio was a fascinating experience. There was an air of anticipation that gradually ramped up, as activities and excitement grew. Each week two of the Contrade were on display, so they would fly their flags proudly through their neighbourhoods, and also have parades. I was able to take in a couple of the parades, complete with drums and flag shows. As time went on you could feel the pulse of the city quickening. One week before the race, dirt was put down on the track in the Campo. There was also a ceremony to reveal this year's banner, which is the prize. On June 29 the real fun began. ALL of the flags came out. People who live outside the gates put out flags on their balconies to show which Contrada they are associated with. All of the Contrade fully decorated their streets. The pre-Palio dinners started, going every night in the streets.

Also on the afternoon of the 29th was the choosing of the horses, which I attended. While each Contrada hires its own jockey, they do not get to choose their own horses. The leadership together choose 10 horses from a larger pool, but then the horses are matched by lottery to each team. So everyone gathers in the Campo and watches as you find out which horse your team will get.

Alessandro met me at the Campo to present me with my own fazzoletto, the bandana that all of the Contrada members wear from

the 29th until race day. He had told me not to buy one of the cheap tourist ones, because the locals can tell immediately which ones are authentic and which aren't. I was so happy, and it's now my favourite Italian souvenir. (Side note: By race day I was able to spot the fake tourist ones too, and made a game of it! lol)

I didn't know anything about any of the horses so I had no idea which one we should be hoping for. There was just one beautiful white horse in the mix of black and brown, so I secretly hoped we would get the white horse. Unfortunately, that one went to Caterpillar. We were given Viso d'Angelo ("Angel Face"), and everyone seemed happy about that, so I thought he must be ok. He certainly is a beautiful horse. After the selection the horse is led down to his Contrada with everyone following, so I followed along to the Torre stable, where the horse would be treated like a king until race day. They washed him down and walked him around so that everyone could see him. On race day they even Bless the horse(!), but I didn't go down for that part.

Between the selection of the horses on the 29th and the race on the evening of the 2nd, there are 6 trial races--morning and evening. These are just to show off the horses and give them practice runs on the course. They are not run hard, to save their legs for race day. However, many people attend these trials, and I went down for the one on

Friday morning. I wanted to see how our horse looked, and scope out a good spot to watch the real deal.

Interestingly, since the start line is just a rope, the horses have to be lined up by the jockeys before they can be started. This turns out to be much more challenging than you would think. They are anxious to get running, and they are nervous from the crowds. They don't want to stand nicely in a line. It can take up to an hour(!) to get them all lined up, as they frequently bounce out of line, or they will have false starts and have to go back and try again. Luckily on the morning I went, it didn't take too long. I watched the white horse bouncing his head up and down (his signature move). Soon they were off and running. However, since it was just a trial, they didn't run very hard. They did their three laps around the track and then were done. All was well.

Or was it?

Friday evening, Owl's horse didn't run in the trial. Rumour was that it was injured. Just a small limp though. We would find out in the morning whether he would be ok to run. Little did we know that the drama was just beginning.

Race Day
Saturday morning I didn't go down to the trial because I wanted to go for a run myself. Upon returning I checked for the updates from Alessandro and the local social media: We were now down TWO horses!

Somehow overnight, Porcupine's horse had also developed an injury and they had kept him home from the trial. Owl had decided theirs was fine to run and had shown up, but the on-site vets checked him out and said no. Owl then staged a protest. It didn't stop the trial, though, and 8 horses ran.

After that, we had to wait until noon for an official announcement for whether those two horses would run the real race in the evening. The verdict: no. There would only be 8 running. This is highly unusual.

Interestingly, my interpretation of this was that they were being cautious as a result of the accusations of harm to animals. Both of the horses' injuries are minor and will not affect their future quality of life, only this race (at least, that's what I've read). The announcement from the officials was that they were pulling the horses out of an abundance of caution. But the opposite message came from the animal rights groups: They stated that these injuries demonstrate the danger of the Palio and that it should be stopped. In any case, only 8 would run.

I arrived at the Campo shortly after 4, even though the race wouldn't be until after 7. This turned out to be a smart decision. The good spots along the fence were already starting to be crowded out, but I managed to squeeze in to a good photo location. It was absurdly hot, 38C, and the sun bore down on us until 6, when it started to descend behind the taller buildings. Shortly after 5, they started closing the gates and clearing the track. This involves police shooing everyone off the track and into the piazza, followed by a cleaning crew that comes through and clears all of the trash off the track. Then another crew comes through and checks and smooths the dirt for the horses.

Then the parade started. Longest. Parade. Ever. I've never seen SO MANY FLAGS. It just went on and on. It went until after 7, by which time I'd been standing still for 3 hours in one tiny little spot. It was interesting to a point, but I confess that I was exhausted by the end and just wanted the race to start. The best part was watching the race horses come through with their Contrade, especially our Angel Face, and my favourite, the white horse, bopping his head as always.

Finally, finally, the parade was over and it was time for the horses to come out and get lined up.

But, as I mentioned earlier, they're not a fan of lining up, especially with a giant crowd making noise. I was actually impressed by how quiet the crowd managed to be, and for how long. It took some time. We had FIVE false starts. They would accidentally start without everyone being lined up properly, a gun shot would sound to tell them to come back, and we'd start again.

However, during the five false starts, two things happened:
Unicorn's horse started to limp after one of the false starts, and refused to get back in line. They called a short break and let the horses walk around for a few minutes while they assessed him. We waited and watched, not knowing what would happen. Then they started walking him out! He was out of the race! We were down to seven, and I could just imagine Unicorn hearts breaking all over the Campo.

More false starts and then... my beautiful white horse tripped on the starting rope and went down and forward, and his jockey flew headlong over him! The horse was fine, but the jockey was taken out on a stretcher. And then the white horse was led out of the race as well. Caterpillar hearts breaking all over the Campo. And we were down to SIX horses. I couldn't believe it. I have no idea if this has ever happened before.

The tension levels were so high. We now had 6 horses running out of the intended 10. Four Contrade were frustrated, angry and sad. Six still hopeful and anxious.

And then finally, the race began! The whole thing is very quick, only lasting around 90 seconds, as they do three laps around the Campo. I was on the far side away from the start, so I was able to take photos while they passed me and then watch as they rounded the far side.

Our Viso d'Angelo started around the middle of the pack, but then quickly started gaining on the leader, Zio Frac (from Dragon). Dragon's horse had started well and was in the lead for the entire race. My heart was racing as we pulled closer and closer to him in the third and final lap. Just as they rounded the last corner, Viso d'Angelo closed the gap and pulled up right next to Zio Frac, finishing nose to nose. It was SO close. But even from where I was standing, I could see that Zio Frac was just the tiniest bit ahead. Ten centimetres, I heard today. Now the heartbreak was for Torre. I was stunned. I was also up against a short fence, and suddenly a horde of excited people was rushing to climb over it and into the track. For a few moments I thought I was about to be trampled, but it was ok.

I made my way out of the Campo and started heading home, trying to process everything I had seen. Loyal to the Torre, I felt sad and stunned at how close the race was. A few more seconds and we would have had it. I also felt sad for Alessandro, because I've seen over the past month how deeply he loves his Contrada and how badly he wanted this win. And while the Dragon supporters were excited and the tourists went about their merry way, there was an underlying current of disappointment around me on the walk home, as the rest of the city deflated from the highs of the last few days.

Today I have learned from Alessandro that all of the horses are fine--any injuries were minor and not concerning. When I asked about the injured jockey he waved it away and said something to the effect that the jockey doesn't matter, we only care about the horses, lol! The jockeys are well paid and choose to be there... the horses, on the other hand, are loved and cherished.

All said and done, I'm grateful that I was able to witness this, not just race day but the entire month leading up to it. I'm grateful for such an amazing host who answered all of my questions and let me be a part of it. Some people think that the Palio is madness, but I would venture that those people don't really understand it. My experience has been both beautiful and heartwrenching, and has made me love Siena all the more.