Chapter 16: Kepler day 3

24/12/19

Getting ready for Christmas

Rise and shine sandflies, it’s time to leave the Irisburn hut behind. While some people will have a slow 16.2 km day towards the final Moturau hut, I will not spend the night there. Instead, I hike directly to the Rainbow Reach car park where, if I make it before 3.30 pm, a shuttle will bring me pack to the original Kepler car park. Or I just walk another 10 km to the car park and complete the full track. Each

ranger spends 6 days in the hut, and on Tuesday (which happens to be today), they hike down and are replaced by a new ranger, which will spend the next 6 days in the hut. According to ranger Robbie, if you want to be on time for the shuttle, you have to make Motura hut before 12.00 pm where he will take his coffee break.

So of I go. The first 16 km are rather easy since most of it is downhill in the forest (But it sucks sooooo hard when it goes back uphill for 100 m, that was not part of the plan). A lot of birds are present and their singing is southing for my tinnitus. It kinda reminded me of the Pantanal in Brazil, where we were listening to the sound of the monkeys, appreciative of the surrounding nature. Here robin and other birds resonate with the sound of the flowing river creating a nice spectacle for the hearing. A few km into the hike I meet the Australian couple (Kevin & anothers dude name which I already have forgotten) (I surely hope the first name was Kevin otherwise this is

super awkward). Since they aim to take the shuttle as well we start hiking together in the hope ranger Robbie doesn’t overtake us. The surrounding environment is not that spectacular except for the Big Slip, which is literally a big slip of rocks. We follow the Irisburn river and are able to spot a blue duck! Hooray something special apparently (my knowledge on ducks is limited, it’s a fact coming from the Australian side). In fact it’s so special since it looks very gray. Not soon after ranger Robbie overtakes us. That dudes walks soooooo fast. Someone clearly wants to be home on time for Christmas! We have the feeling we are not even halfway the first 16 km.

On our way to the Moturau hut there are a couple of shelters to hide during bad weather. Here, we find ranger Robbie cleaning and fixing a couple of things. Hooray, we are back on schedule! Increase the pace it is! The Irisburn river becomes wider and wider and soon it flows into Lake Manapouri. This endless lake is the scenery for the

Moturau hut a few kilometers away. You can see as far as the horizon, similar to the lakes in Canada where me and just a yellow canoe was the start of it all. Here no canoes so tramping downhill it will be! Eventually ranger Robbie overtakes us a second time. However, we remain on schedule and soon after we make it to the Moturua hut. The perfect place for lunch except for the gazzilion sandflies that seem to enjoy a nice day at the beach. Those little things bite nasty! The K-T family is already present here and this time the husband made it sooner to the hut than the wife. Each has his specialties it seems to be! A snap a picture of K-T, he really is a nice hiking enthusiast. One more hour to go so the lunch is quick and all the people that continue are heading towards the car park. On the way we meet a few day hikers that are just going up towards the Moturau hut. The last few km are hard but the final bridge over the river that connects lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri becomes into

view! We have made it! Everyone is super excited, as we lay down, tiered but proud on our accomplishment. I finished my 3-day Kepler track! What an achievement that was. Only last year in Myanmar I completed my first 3-day track in good company. Today I had to do it on my own, surrounded with people having the same goal. Enjoying the hike in the beautiful nature!

15 dollars later I use the Kepler shuttle to get back my car. During the track, people said it was not that wise to leave the car unattended but luckily everything was left intact! Who the fuck would come all the way down to the middle of nowhere to steal my dirty underwear? That must be a very desperate thief! Anyway, back to the hostel for the warm shower. In my dorm I meet an Australian/Asian dude who is super excited to meet new people. Since everything is closed tomorrow we do the shopping today. In the local supermarket we each buy our own stuff but he forgets his passport to show he is old

enough for alcohol. When I friendly ask if I can buy the beer for him the cashier informs me that it is not allowed. The supervisor takes notices and also informs me that I will not be allowed to buy my single cider I took for myself since I might give it to the guy without the passport. Damn, the alcohol laws in New Zealand are sooooo strict so we leave the supermarket without the drinks. Not wanting to cook tonight, I hit up the fish and chips to regain some lost calories.

In the hostel a tall big guy is making hamburgers and drinking shitloads of Summersby ciders. I notice he is wearing a Brugse rugby pull over. THE FUCK, I have met my first Belgian person after more than two weeks (I swear to god, with all the Germans visiting New Zealand, it seems to be like a German Christmas market in Keulen from time to time). His name is Maxim, 25 years old and used to be the best number 8 of the Brugse Rugby club. Currently playing in Roeselare, he has hit his head on the ground and temporary lost his memory. Constant headaches later, he as well is here to find some rest. His memory his back, his headaches are getting better and hopefully he should have full recovery! Apparently we played against each other during my first rugby season and know we meet in fucking New Zealand. What a coincidence! After some good talking in Dutch I start my fish and chips. Time for some rest now because at the age of 30, you feel a 3-day Alpine hike in every muscle of that old body.

Until later,

Steven