Chapter 15: Kepler day 2

23/12/2019

Over the ridge of the Kelpler track

Apparently hikers are early birds because most of them wake up early to start the breakfast. Once again, the more experienced hikers have a wide range of cool things to eat. I just have to do it with bread, peanut butter and cheese (which is in my humble opinion as good). Not soon after, ranger Allison urges us to start the hike since the weather conditions are awesome. So slightly under pressure I start

day 2 on the top of the world. Today I will cross a beautiful ridge (if the weather allows it) between two mountains, which should take between 6 and 8 hours. First stop is the summit of Mount Luxmore, only 1 hour and half away. I put on my layers of sunscreen and here I go.

The walking conditions are nice and the views are wonderfull. I leave the south fiord of Lake Te Anau behind and travel towards the middle of nowhere. Behind the mountain, the cellphones do not have range. Here, you are out on your own. Luckily I meet multiple people on the way. That is the advantage of being stuck with 53 other people on a mountain; you start talking on the way. Everyone has his own pace so most of the time I was walking alone but during each encounter friendly words are exchanged. After a small dip in altitude it is time to go up to the summit. Wind is picking up and the road to the top is more challenging. Step by step I go up fighting against the elements.

There is no clear track yet eventually I make it to the 1472m summit. It is an emotional climb. I scream out loud when reaching the top. I cannot let it get the better of me. I will not let it get the better of me. I must be stronger despite all the shit that has happened, however hard it will be. I stay a little bit longer. Sit down, and appreciate the surrounding nature. It is beautiful here on the top of the world.

More people are coming up so its time for me to go down and continue my hike. At the start of the summit I take a small break and witness how Kea are trying to steal food from the backpack of fellow travellers. Those birds are really smart to get their foreign food. Alpine birds for the win! Leaving Mount Luxmore I climb the ridge connecting the two mountains. Clear views over the Murchison Mountains make it a stunning walk, highlighting why this is a famous great walk. Time goes by and I make it to the last part of todays track. 6 km downhill towards The Irisburn hut. We have been warned

for the descent since you will feel it in the legs. Just 24 trapboxes (which are put up by ranger to catch rats and other stuff dangerous for the protected birds) to go. O my, they just keep on coming these boxes. 22, 18, 12, 8, aaaaaaaaaah, the descent is just going and going, until the final box! Yeaaaaaah, I have made my way towards the Irisburn hut. Ranger Robbie is not present when I arrive but I find myself a bunkbed in the hut. Now, only a handful of people will stay the night. Not all of the 54 people are doing the complete track apparently. After 2 days of hiking, a quick dip in the river is rather, refreshing. OMG the water directly coming from the mountains is soo fucking cold so my dip does not last long. Soon after, more people arrive to the hut and we take a touristy trip to the Irisburn waterfalls. Its nice but nothing compared to other big waterfalls such as the Igauzu falls in Brazil and Argentina.

Time for dinner again and I am looking forward to my honey soy

chicken astronaut food! I know the drill, 15 min of boiling water and off I go! Hmm, damn, compared to yesterday Thai chicken curry, this tastes rather dull. No spices to add here since everything is flown in by helicopter. Well, luckily the 14.6 km hike helps to make things taste better. Next time I will go for the spaghetti bolognaise which seems to be enjoyed very much by the Australian hikers. As evening sets, the sandflies come. OMG, they are coming in quantities and bite you everywhere. Even inside they are unstoppable. There is a good reason ranger Robbies nickname is ‘lord of the sandflies’. After the hut talk and some more interesting stories on Kea’s the evening goes towards its end. There are 14 different species of kiwis and the second largest one leaves in the vicinity of the Irisburn hut. Btw, did I mention I forgot to bring electrolytes (Isostar powder like thingies). Apparently that is a big thing when hiking for multiple days. Avoid you of having cramping legs. I will be soooo much better prepared next hike! Now it is time for some sleep. Well, with a snorer in the room

we know how sleeping will be going!

Until tomorrow sandflies,

Steven