Europe - Salzburg

Today's Garmin Step Mileage: 12 km

So far we have discovered a city with 27 churches, the birthplace of Mozart and many of the filming locations of the Sound of Music. Today we are going to do a bit of a road trip, head into the southeastern tip of German Bavaria and into the area of Berchtesgaden and Obersalzberg.

Travelling west for 28-30 km we headed to The Eagles Nest or "Kehlsteinhaus". Having done some research about the Eagle's Nest, we got up early and was at the Obersalzberg ticket station at 0745. With the first bus leaving at 0830, we were well ahead of the majority of tourists and the big tours that visit this location. Thanks to all of our planning we were up and back within 2 hours (after a fantastic coffee stop at the top) and getting into our car when the place was starting to hit large numbers. When we left it was a 30-45 min wait to buy your ticket, 1 more hour to wait for the bus, a 30 min wait for the elevator to get to the top and then all the same waiting to come back down again. Crazy, right!

The Eagle's Nest Lodge was a gift to Adolf Hitler for his 50th birthday in 1939. His inner circle all contributed toward it's building

costs. According to a legend the elaborate marble fireplace was a little extra gift from Mussolini. It took over 2 years and 2000 people just to carve the roadway up the mountain side to the tunnel to get to the elevator; all in the time of war and hardship for the Germany people. After the war was declared over and Hilter was no longer in power, the victorious allied soldiers chipped off countless souvenirs from the lodge, making the original artifacts almost non-existent today.

While many people call the entire area "Hitler's Eagle's Nest," it actually refers to just the mountaintop chalet. This extravagant lodge — its precision stonework evoking both fascist obedience and slave labor — was only the tip of a vast Berchtesgaden compound that served as Hitler's second seat of government and his planned refuge of last resort.

Early in his career Adolf Hitler was inspired by this dramatic corner of Bavaria...so steeped in legend and close to the soul of the German people. This tiny bit of Bavaria, nearly encircled by Austria, held a special appeal to the Austrian-German Hitler. In the 1920s, just out of prison, he checked into an alpine hut up here to finish his manifesto, Mein Kampf. Because it was here that he claimed to be inspired and laid out his vision, some call Berchtesgaden the "cradle of the Third Reich."

In reality, rather than just an alpine chalet, the Obersalzberg was a huge compound of 80 buildings. Many of these buildings were closed to the public after 1936 by the Nazis; where the major decision leading up to World War II were hatched by those in power. It was here that Hitler hosted world leaders, wowing them with the aesthetics and engineering of his mountain palace and the adoration

of his people. However, only a select few would ever enter the Eagle's Nest. Hilter kept is quite secretive and a special place that was off limits for even the highest ranking officers.

While a fortune was spent to build the Eagle's Nest perch, Hitler made only 14 official visits. From the bus stop at the top of the windy roady, a finely crafted tunnel leads to a polished brass elevator which zips you to the top (126 ft straight up). Today the chalet only has a few remaining artifacts and single rooms that tell the storey of its origin. The remaining building areas now contain a restaurant with a scenic terrace 100 yards below the summit of a mountain. It is a great place to have your morning coffee. Knowing the history of the place will send chills down your spine as you look out at the 360 degree panoramic view of the valley below. From up above you can get a great view of Konigsee lake, being our next stop on our road trip.

After an amazing time at the Eagle's Nest we continued on our journey to Konigsee Lake. Situated within the Berchtesgaden Alps in the municipality of Schönau am Königsee, just south of

Berchtesgaden and the Austrian city of Salzburg, the Königssee is Germany's third deepest lake. Located at a Jurassic rift, it was formed by glaciers during the last ice age. It stretches about 7.7 km (4.8 mi) in a north-south direction, and is about 1.7 km (1 mi) across at its widest point.

Except at its outlet, the Königsseer Ache at the village of Königssee, the lake is similar to a fjord, being surrounded by the steeply-rising flanks of mountains up to 2,700 m (8,900 ft), including the Watzmann massif in the west. It has the most amazing green hue, much like Emerald Lake back home. You could paddle on the lake, take an electric boat tour or go hiking in the area. We decided to take the 30 min hike around the one side of the lake. Near a fork in the pathway was a great little lookout to watch the electric boats in the distance, and a great stop for lunch. Many people in the area take their swim suits and spend the afternoon swimming and lounging at the lake

side. Unfortunately we did not have our suits and skinny dipping is frowned upon... Maybe next time.

After a great day of exploring we headed back into town. A little wandering in the town before heading out for dinner that night. Tonight we wanted to try another recommendation from our host and visit a local place to eat; great food and good prices and popular with the locals from Salzburg - Augustiner Braugasthof Krimpelstätter.
Rick had the traditional Wienerschnitzel with potatoes and a type of berry compote. I had the wild ragou. It came with a dumpling, pear and the berry compote. Fantastic dinner for us both and was only about $50 with drinks. What we have found is that if you eat where the locals eat (or at brew houses) you can get fantastic food with good portions for a reasonable price. Not to mention the local atmosphere that adds to the experience. Rick has not had a bad lager beer yet!

One more day in the Salzburg area before we head over to Innsbruck. So I think that we will head over to the lake district to check out a few more towns.

Rustic Wild Boar Ragout
Ingredients

1/4 cup olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed and finely chopped
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 large stalk celery, finely chopped
1 carrots, finely chopped
3/4 pound Wild Boar Mini Roast, about half of a roast
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 teaspoon rubbed sage
1 teaspoon thyme leaves, removed from stem
2 bay leaves
1 can (15 oz) whole Italian plum tomatoes, with their juice

2 cups chicken stock
1 cup low-fat milk
1 pinch finely crushed fennel seeds (optional)
2 to 3 big pinches crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper

Preparation

Slice roast into 1/4 inch slices. Using culinary scissors, cut the slices into 1/4 strips.

Then snip the strips into tiny pieces with kitchen scissors. Spread the meat out on a plate, season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

In a large Dutch oven, heat olive oil on medium high heat. Cook onion and fennel until translucent.

Add garlic, celery, carrots and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are golden. Add boar meat and cook until it loses its pink color.

Add the white wine; bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and let cook until almost all the wine has been absorbed, about 10 minutes.

Add sage, thyme, and bay leaves. Add tomatoes, crushing with your fingers before dropping into pot; don’t forget to add the juices, too.

Stir in chicken stock. Bring mixture to a boil; reduce heat and let cook at a lively simmer, uncovered, for 1 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally.

Stir in one cup of lowfat milk, crushed fennel seeds, red pepper, nutmeg. Continue to cook for another hour at a lively simmer.

You should have a very thick sauce. Let the sauce cool a bit.
Using a potato masher, smash the sauce to break up any largish chunks of meat.

Reheat and serve tossed with papardelle and freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

This sauce is even better refrigerated overnight and served the next day.