Galway and the Connemara

When people think of Ireland, a gastronomical delight is not what comes to mind. That award usually goes to the French or the Italians. You might be one of those people. You'd be wrong.

Kinsale (remember back to a few entries ago), has earned the title of the gastronomic capital of Ireland. Even the French have taken notice (high praise indeed). While there, I ate at a marvelous Italian place run by a local Irish family, Bruno's. All ingredients used are either grown in their own garden or is locally sourced. Their only importing is Italian wines. The meal was delicious, and definitely not what I expected out of a smaller fishing/port town. The next day, after exploring Charles Fort, I had the joy of taking a late lunch The Bulman Bar & Restaurant. Not only did I get to try a locally made, dry Irish cider (Stonewell), but I dined on lobster risotto that was heavenly. That evening, at a local pub, I was treated to a gorgeous seafood chowder with delectable brown bread. Yum, yum, yum!

On the way up to Galway from Ennis,

we stopped at a place call Moran's on the Weir, aka Moran's Oyster Cottage, at the recommendation of my aunt. Holy heck, delicious! It was a beautifully sunny day, so we tried our luck at one of the outside picnic tables situated in front of this lovely thatched roof cottage overlooking to water that eventually flows into Galway Bay. We split garlic breaded mussels (so fresh!) and each had smoked salmon on brown bread. Complete with a pint of Guinness and the most agreeable weather, it made for quite the perfect afternoon. So, the next time you think you can't eat well in Ireland, think again.

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Our time in Cos. Galway and Mayo was spent mainly exploring the countryside and its wonders. We headed off quickly north of Galway to a place called Westport. It is the only architecturally designed city in the whole of Ireland and it is adorable. We liked it so much, we stayed an extra night! And, I received my very first hug from a B&B owner, which was simply wonderful. I will definitely stay with Sadie and Noreen at The Boulevard B&B again. Without a doubt!

If you're in Westport, I highly recommend either biking or driving out to Achill island. If you decide you want to go to the end of the island, to Keem Sound (highly worth it, go, go!), drive. The road is steep, narrow, and as you drive out to it there is no barrier between you and the ocean below for most of the way.

Our return trip back down to Galway was spent doing the Connemara loop, starting with Croagh Patrick (Cruach Phádraig). This is a mountain standing 764m tall and is the site of a large pilgrimage on Reek Sunday up the mountain. The most devout will actually summit it barefoot. According to some, they are usually the ones who then are brought down on stretchers. Understandable - it is rocky!

Across from Croagh Patrick is the coffin ship, a memorial to those that lost their lives during the great famine and attempted emigration to the New World. It is a haunting memorial. In Gaelic, the great famine is actually known as the great hunger. Ireland had food, they had plenty of food, but the majority of the food they produced (except the potato) was used to pay their English landlords. Thus, when the potato failed, the Irish starved while the English landlords were as happy and healthy as can be.

We continued on the Connemara loop through a hauntingly desolate landscape of the Doo Lough (do lock) valley, passing Aasleagh (Ashley) falls and arriving at Kylemore Abbey. It's quite pretty and sits at the end of the water. Lovely gardens, but if you're short on time, I'd give it a pass (a bit pricey for what you get). Next stop, just a few kilometers down the road, Connemara National Park and my search for the Connemara pony. The park has 4 trails of

varying lengths and difficulties (green, yellow, blue and red) so you can choose your own adventure. I had planned on doing the blue, but got to talking with a couple from Holland, missed my turn off and ended up going down the red path. Surprise! You get to summit the mountain on this path. So, a vertical 445m later, I am atop Connemara with the most spectacular 365 degree view you can imagine, including that of Kylemore Abbey from whence I just came. A very fortunate misadventure. And I found my pony! 2 in fact, and 2 donkeys for good measure.