I am back in Paris, a city I adore. However, coming directly from Ireland has been quite the challenge. I've moved from a society of extremely friendly (or nosy), talkative, gift of the gab (and craic) people who would embrace this solo traveler to one that is colder and more standoffish. I had noticed it in the past on some of my other travels, but this contrast was a bit more stark and striking. You could see the curiosity on the Parisian faces (a solo female traveler?! Quoi?), but instead of asking me questions like the Irish would, they would just stare and wonder. Oh well.
Moving past this abrupt contrast took awhile, but it finally came and I owe it all to walking about the city. Fortunately, the weather was impeccable during my stay in Paris and it made walking a true joy. Aside from people watching at a cafe, walking around Paris is one of my favorite things to do. And provided it is not pouring rain or absolutely frigid, I will take to the streets à pied. Seeing Paris from this vantage point cannot be beat. It surprises me to no end that a city can be so familiar, and yet a complete stranger at the same time. You can turn a corner and all of a sudden you're struck with a
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14 chapters
16 Apr 2020
September 25, 2015
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Paris
I am back in Paris, a city I adore. However, coming directly from Ireland has been quite the challenge. I've moved from a society of extremely friendly (or nosy), talkative, gift of the gab (and craic) people who would embrace this solo traveler to one that is colder and more standoffish. I had noticed it in the past on some of my other travels, but this contrast was a bit more stark and striking. You could see the curiosity on the Parisian faces (a solo female traveler?! Quoi?), but instead of asking me questions like the Irish would, they would just stare and wonder. Oh well.
Moving past this abrupt contrast took awhile, but it finally came and I owe it all to walking about the city. Fortunately, the weather was impeccable during my stay in Paris and it made walking a true joy. Aside from people watching at a cafe, walking around Paris is one of my favorite things to do. And provided it is not pouring rain or absolutely frigid, I will take to the streets à pied. Seeing Paris from this vantage point cannot be beat. It surprises me to no end that a city can be so familiar, and yet a complete stranger at the same time. You can turn a corner and all of a sudden you're struck with a
miraculous view, an architectural beauty, a quaint courtyard or neighborhood garden, something you've never seen before and is likely not on any map. It refreshes the soul and makes you happy. These walks helped me refind my love for this city when I was missing the warmth, music and Guinness of Ireland. Merci, Paris.
***
I am always in awe of French women. I don't care how good you think you look on a particular day, how fashionable are your clothes, how chic your shoes, how avant-gard your hairstyle, a French woman will put you to shame and make you feel frumpy and unkempt. They are always impeccably styled, from perfectly coiffed hair (even in gale force winds, it seems) to beautifully red lips to fashion-forward shoes. I am envious of their ability to look picture perfect at all times AND make it look effortless. Not fair. You think they'll teach me? Or better question, do you think I can be taught? My bet is on no.
***
I had the absolute joy of returning to one of my favorite spots in Paris, Mariage Frères. It is a tea house started in 1854 by two brothers. I first discovered this little gem on my previous trip to Paris, January 2014, and have not looked back. They have 4 or so locations scattered throughout Paris, but my favorite by far is their Marais location. Tucked on an unassuming side street lies this Mecca of teas. The front of their
business is a tea shop, selling hundreds of mostly loose leaf teas by weight. The back, however, is where the magic really happens. An oasis of white linened tables greet you as do servers also dressed in all-white. If you are lucky, you get seated below their huge skylight which floods that area of the building with natural light. The server then proceeds to hand you 3 items: the food menu, the tea menu and a book, L'art français du thé, The French art of tea. The food menu is the shortest of the three by far, and while delectable and creative, is not the reason I come here. I come for the tea. The book is an accompaniment to the tea menu, and describes in some detail the various teas offered. I have pursued this book many times, and even bought the French version for myself on my last visit, but, much like Paris, I still discover something new every time. It is so much fun to read this book (I am sure it doesn't sound like it) and I can easily spend twenty minutes trying to decide which tea to try this time. Fortunately, they are used to this and the whole experience feels luxurious and relaxed. I highly recommend a trip here, even if tea is not your thing. And don't worry, the menus and book come in English versions.
***
My last night in Paris I had the amazing opportunity to meet up with 2 very good friends. And though we all live in Ventura, why not meet
up in Paris? Best idea ever. It was absolutely wonderful to spend the evening with these 2 and share in the beauty and joy of Paris together. Quelle chance!
(Please forgive the quality of the photo of us three: it was taken at approximately 1am after a few alcoholic beverages)
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