Chapter Eleven - Whales and Wellington Ahead

Amberely allows me my first 'Al Fresco'dining experience of my trip so far. The evening sunshine is glorious and most welcome after several days of grey and rain.

Breakfast is ‘Al Fresco’ too.... bacon butties, good, honest explorer food. Today I am hunting for whales ...... in a good way..... off to Kaikoura!

The sun is shining, it is warm, I have my shorts on, I’m duetting with Bruce, Kurt and Dave while watching the stunning scenery go by... for the first time this trip I have had to use the AC button........ all is good in the world.

The regions roads were badly damaged in the earthquake and stretches have not long been re-opened but there are still major road works for miles and miles. Lots of 30km limits, gravel road and mostly jolly people with stop/go boards giving enthusiastic waves as I trundle past. The coast line is stunning but rest stops are filled with road work machinery and materials so difficult to nip out to take pictures.

I park up at Whale Watch Kaikoura and take my picnic lunch on to the beach..... I’m in love...... this place is beautiful...... snow capped mountain, turquoise blue water, black sand (!?) and whales!!!

I arrive punctually for my trip check in to see the previous trip has been cancelled..... it seems the whales have gone on their own day trip and are ‘out of the boats juristiction’ playing in water too far away. As I approach the desk my trip is cancelled too. Sigh. I am offered an inshore nature tour instead... seals, dolphins, birds so I accept this with a refund for the difference in trip cost.

We are packed on to a bus and taken to our boat to start the tour. I’m with a large group of Asian tourists who are not really dressed for a boat and don’t seem to be good at following instructions. They move as a pack so woe betided any one in there way.... I am pushed and climbed over on several occasions!

Our skipper manoeuvres the boat at speed in search of wildlife. We are given strict instructions to sit still and not move which the tour group ignore much to the annoyance of the crew. Maybe because I was disappointed about missing the whales but I just wasn’t getting a happy vibe on this trip......... we see dusky dolphins, hector dolphins and seals swimming and sun bathing but you kinda have the feeling that if you'd gone for a paddle you would have seen this too.

On wards and upwards.

This is my last night on South Island so I need to be close to the ferry for the morning but I want to freedom camp somewhere lovely. I choose the Wairau River. Gin and tonic overlooking the river and a corker of a sunset. Lovely.

The ferry terminal is a 20 min drive passed row upon neat row of vines interspersed with inviting signs for tours and tasters. This is the first time on the trip that I have wished I had a companion.... some one else who can be the designated driver!

I arrive early for check in for my ferry (you are getting an understanding of my love of being early!!) so my thoughts turn to my North Island itinerary. Having learned from my mistakes of the last week I check the weather........ my plan is to head up the west coast to photograph a lighthouse and then cross over to the east on Friday afternoon..........the 5 day forecast shows wind and rain Thursday and Friday on the west coast which will ruin my photos. The east coast is showing big fat sunshine and 25 degrees.

Decision made, Interislander ferry boarded, I rework the route while cruising through Queen Charlotte Sound and out in to the Cook Straits. More stunning views but a tad cold and windy to take pictures!

A very scenic 3hr (ish) sail later we dock in Wellington and I have a vague plan B but need functioning wifi to confirm details but that can wait a while..... I know today’s plan....

We file off the ferry in Wellington... I am now heading for friends in Waikanae.... I’ve not seen them for 15yrs and I’ve not held a proper conversation with someone in over 15 days.....

I drive up the street looking for the house number and a girl munching a toffee apple is positioned outside looking for a camper van. She sees my white box and skips indoors to alert the household.... I have arrived, hugs, tears and a cup of tea all soon follow. The gorgeous children sing traditional songs, we eat fabulous food, drink wine and catch up on all the goings on of the last 15 years. Time flies by so quickly. A thoroughly great time spent with lovely people. Too short.

After breakfast and more tears I leave for a tour of Kapiti Island. This island just off the coast has been a nature reserve since 1897 and access is limited to 100 people per day. Birds no longer seen on the main land can be seen here and Coop, the tour guide, enthusiastically points out the different calls and birds hopping around the trees. After a strenuous walk up the Wilkinson track lunch is munched at the summit of Tuteremoana (521m) under the watchful eye of a Weka bird patrolling looking hopefully for crumbs.

The weather is set to change so my re-planning is taking me to the west coast and Napier (ish). Beaches, waterfalls, lakes and the third largest national park are this way.

It takes me three attempts to find a freedom camping space for the night as the ones close to Hastings and Napier are full by the time I arrive at 6.30pm.... pretty annoying after a long drive. It was a beautiful evening and I now just want to relax with a cold beer...... I end up at Lake Tutira just as the sun disappears. A quiet spot with plenty of space for a little one..... now where's the bottle opener..........