Nats Epic Solo New Zealand Adventure

As lovely as Lake Tutira is there is no internet coverage so re-planning needs to be done the old fashion way using books and maps!

I like to walk so NZs third largest National Park Te Urewera looks good with plenty to see and a nice camp spot on the shores of Lake Waikaremoana. Perfect.

Off I trundle. There will be some gravel roads but nothing me and my van can’t handle. By lunch I am parked in prime spot on the lake so cook up some brunch ready to spend the rest of the day tramping.

Whilst eating the cloud rolls in and the drizzle starts. Damn. I don’t fancy walking in the rain so plan c.... I’ll move on and see if I can leave the rain behind. If I had been able to check the internet I would have read....

“The highway has a 2WD gravel surface for about 90 km between Murupara and Aniwaniwa (about a 2 hour drive).”

“Know before you go - Extreme weather changes are a feature of the area, including snow in summer”

The Lake Waikaremoana Road even gets a mention on www.dangerousroads.org ...... oops! Sorry mum!

This is like driving on the equivalent of a temporary road surface during roadworks!...... all along those usual NZ steep inclines, steep descents, hair pin bends but today’s added bonus is ‘free roaming stock’....... horses and cows randomly appearing in the middle of the road. Yay!

After 4 hrs of shacking and rattling...... thankfully not rolling!...... I

Natasha Robinson

13 chapters

16 Apr 2020

Chapter Twelve - Gravel Roads, Geo-thermals and Glow worms

November 11, 2018

As lovely as Lake Tutira is there is no internet coverage so re-planning needs to be done the old fashion way using books and maps!

I like to walk so NZs third largest National Park Te Urewera looks good with plenty to see and a nice camp spot on the shores of Lake Waikaremoana. Perfect.

Off I trundle. There will be some gravel roads but nothing me and my van can’t handle. By lunch I am parked in prime spot on the lake so cook up some brunch ready to spend the rest of the day tramping.

Whilst eating the cloud rolls in and the drizzle starts. Damn. I don’t fancy walking in the rain so plan c.... I’ll move on and see if I can leave the rain behind. If I had been able to check the internet I would have read....

“The highway has a 2WD gravel surface for about 90 km between Murupara and Aniwaniwa (about a 2 hour drive).”

“Know before you go - Extreme weather changes are a feature of the area, including snow in summer”

The Lake Waikaremoana Road even gets a mention on www.dangerousroads.org ...... oops! Sorry mum!

This is like driving on the equivalent of a temporary road surface during roadworks!...... all along those usual NZ steep inclines, steep descents, hair pin bends but today’s added bonus is ‘free roaming stock’....... horses and cows randomly appearing in the middle of the road. Yay!

After 4 hrs of shacking and rattling...... thankfully not rolling!...... I

reach tarmac roads and I resist the temptation of getting out and kissing the tarmac in the style of Pope John Paul II.

With all four tyres still inflated I head off to my spot for the night on Lake Aniwaniwa.

The day has been a bit off a write off.

Friday - Rain, rain go away..... I have to admit that my ability to remain positive is struggling..... the bright side of life is obscured by rain clouds.... even screaming along to ‘Baby I don’t care’ as I drive doesn’t help today. (classic Transvision Vamp!)

But these purple boots are made for walking so I force my self to get out of the van at my first stop. Rainbow Mountain. The track leads you up Rainbow Mountain (743m), along a 3km track, and you can see lots of lakes and some of the areas geothermal activity from its summit.

I have packed my waterproof trousers to ward off the rain and it seems to be working. I slip slide up the clay/sand/mud track which is shared with mountain bikers so there are sections with very deep groves that make the path particularly difficult to negotiate. I quickly rise up and you can see the red speckled cliffs with steam rising up from them. I reach the top and the cloud is low but the surrounding

landscape is mostly visible with patience.

What slip slides up must slip slide down..... and on the way I take a short diversion to see Crater Lake which is a lovely blue colour with steam rising from it. After the vigorous walk and a little sunshine I am feeling more positive for the day so head on to Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland.

WOW, WOW, WOW and that's just the smell....sulphur/rotten eggs.....WOW!

Wai-O-Tapu is a park arranged around a number of natural Geothermal features (this area of NZ is famous for it geothermal stuff). The walk shows off craters and steaming lakes with names like Devils Home, Inferno Crater and Artists Palette. The colours are amazing with one lake the same colour as a yellow highlighter pen. I quickly make up for not taking many photos over the last few days. Water boils out of the ground at 100 degrees with different minerals determining their colour. This place is A...MA...ZING!

A short drive down the road are the mud pools which are bubbling away. The deep tone of the glugging, plopping noise of the mud reminds me of boiling chocolate custard on the stove.

Redwood Forest is next. Planted in 1901 the Redwoods were part of an experiment to see which trees grew quickest and were the best but the trees were never cut down leaving this forest that is a mountain biking mecca in this region. I opt for a short walk to see these magnificent trees. Some of them are huge!

Last stop is Rotorua. I'm expecting it to be busy so have booked a space on a camp site so I have no worries about where to spend the night. Its expensive but close to the town centre so I can walk to Kuirau Park. This is a large public park in the centre of town which randomly has geothermal sites scattered around it. They are all fenced in and vary in interest but the large steaming lake is lovely. Timing is everything as the steam mists up the camera lens but then a cool breeze blows the steam away so you can see the lake and not be steamed up!

I finish the day feeling brighter. I have walked 24km, had interesting things to take pictures of and very little rain.... hopefully things are getting back on track.

Saturday is glow worm day! I have a short drive with stops along the way to get to Waimarino Water Park for my trip that starts at 7pm

First stop is Okere Falls. One of my easiest walks so far along a track

that allows you to watch the white water rafters fly by. You can hear whoops and screams but can’t always see the river. Strategic view points allow you to watch all the action..... it makes me giggle as groups in inflatable rafters get soaked!

Next is Mount Maunganui for a more strenuous hike with beach views....... I have noticed over the last couple of days that traffic is getting heavier....... less campers, more trucks and cars. And today they too are heading for Mount Maunganui. It is grid locked with cars, no parking spaces and far to many people so I divert and head on to Tauranga ready for this evenings trip.

To fill time I go to Mclaren Falls Park to have lunch and a wander. On the way I notice a new road sign painted on the road. Up to now I have seen lots of 'ONE'.........'LANE'.......'BRIDGE' but this one was 'PED'........'XING'.......'AHEAD' What an earth does that mean............It took me a while...... ahhhhh...... Pedestrian Crossing Ahead....... silly me!

I also see my first Auckland sign..... I'm about 200KM south of my final destination........ sniff......

When I check in (early!) for the Glow Worms I find that we will be heading for Mclaren Falls Park...... our guides Royce and Jack take us to the park and set up the sun downers and nibbles by the side of the lake. We drink wine as the sun sets.... apparently the wine helps with your ability to see the glow worms! We are kitted up, briefed (including on how to use the 'holy crap strap'!) and helped in to our kayaks. They are 2 man kayaks and as I'm the odd one (no comments!) so I get paired with Jack - there is a definite advantage to travelling solo.... Jack is a super kayaker and white water expert..... I feel very relaxed as we paddle off in to the dark.

After about 20 mins of paddling we turn off the main channel in to a narrower side stream and the glowing bums of the glow worms start to be visible. It is beautiful! Jack allows me to stop paddling so I can sit back and take in the views. Royce explains they are also called Fungus Gnats but calling the trip 'Kayak with Fungus Gnats' probably wouldn't be as popular!

I optimistically try to film the experience but initial review is not promising..... never mind. I have it in my memories how beautiful it all was. A first class trip and highly recommended if you ever find yourself out this way!

Fingers crossed for more kayaking tomorrow around Cathedral Cove!

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