Chapter Thirteen - Sunshine and Paradise Found

I wake up to see a text from Mike saying this afternoons kayak trip is cancelled due to the weather. Damn and blast.

I look at the various weather reports and it’s difficult to tell what the issue is. I not only want to kayak Cathedral Cove but I want to walk too. Its another iconic, must see location. If I can’t walk or kayak then there is little point going. I give Mike a call to get a ‘man on the ground’ weather report. It’s windy but not really rainy. He says walking will still be fine although a bit breezy. He also says he is 60% confident that the trip would run the following morning. Eek. Decision! I have been so looking forward to this......

I am soon on the road cruising up to Cathedral Cove to walk the track from Ha Hei to Cathedral Cove..... lazy tourists take the shuttle bus! I have rescheduled the kayaking for the morning and changed my plans for the next couple of days...... fingers crossed.

As part of the re-planning I have booked myself in to the Hot Water Beach camp site...... it's close to the kayaking and gives me a night with “leci” and big hot showers.

The walk from HaHei is excellent. Some great views which could only be improved by blue skies. I walk through a wood that was planted to commemorate WW1 soldiers... this is really quite poignant as today is Armistice day.......

Respects paid I decide to continue on to Cathedral Cove and to stop off at Sting Ray Bay and Gem Stone Beach on the way back. The Cove is worth the walk and is reminiscent of a Microsoft start up image although it’s not. There are loads of tourists so patience is needed to get the arch with as few people as possible. In contrast Sting Ray Bay and Gem Stone Beach are deserted so make a perfect lunch stop...... neither lives up to their name....

The camp site is next to Hot Water Beach which is a tourist 'hot' spot.... literally. 2hrs either side of low tide you go to the beach with your spade, dig a hole and sit in it! The hole is filled with water that seeps up from the hot water spring near the beach so you have your own spa bath!

I hire my shovel and head to the hoards on the beach. I wasn’t really planning on doing this but as I’m here anyway then why not. I wander around looking slightly bewildered and a chap offers me his pre dug hole which has lovely warm water in it..... he's off to get on his coach...... result. I sit in the water which is lovely and warm and then suddenly becomes ‘burn your bum’ hot..... regular cheek re positioning is required..... this is all very bizarre and of limited novelty

when you are sat by yourself so after 15mins I gift my hole on the beach to someone else.

I wake on Monday to another text from Mike.... my kayak trip has been cancelled so I must now head further north to Auckland and Waiheke Island.

I haven’t booked the ferry yet as I wasn’t sure on timings so I try and book on line..... bugger.... only online booking for vehicles up to 5.5m.... I frantically check the website to try and see if they do take bigger vehicles but prices are POA..... I’m starting to panic a little..... after several emails (very impressed the company was online at 7 am) I am booked on the ferry although a little more pricey than I had expected.

My journey takes me on proper motorways so is quite quick. Rain has given way to sunshine and as I queue for the ferry it is exceptionally warm. Cars are loaded first and then a man in a high viz vest comes over to me. “Can you reverse on please?” ......... I looked at the very spacious car deck and back at him...”are you being serious?”........ “yes, safety reasons”........ I briefly considered how reversing up a ramp over the sea was safer than a 3 point turn on the deck and then he said “I can do it for you!”........ I smile, thank him and proceed to reverse on the ferry!

The sailing is lovely. Warm, great views and when I arrive at my camp site my mood is improving. Its hot, sunny, I’m parked next to the beach...... this is more like it.

My old boss and friend emigrated here 10 years ago so I haven’t seen him since although we chat periodically on messenger. He has been sending recommendations throughout my NZ trip and generally

checking in seeing I’m not lost or dead - very similar to when we worked together and he dispatched me on another 'amazing' project!

We meet up and head to Batch Winery, sit in the sun, drink wine, admire the view and catch up. We discuss why I should ditch staying in Auckland and stay on the island for an extra night. The passenger ferry to Auckland runs every 30 mins so if I want to do a trip I can just jump on the ferry and not worry about moving the van. In the evening I sit on the beach with my beer watching the sun set over the Auckland sky line....... sold..... extra night booked, ferry rescheduled, full day sea kayak trip booked..... and relax.

Tuesday and I finally get to do an NZ wine tour...... after being tempted so many times I can now sit back and relax and let Ananda Tours do the driving. I’m first pick up from my camp site so get a

good drive around and Steve the driver tells me all about the island. Around every bend is a view of a stunning beach or bay with sailing boats bobbing about on turquoise water. Once all the guests are on board we visit Stoneyridge winery, then Goldie, ending up at Kennedy Point. Lots of wine tasting and taking in of views. I’m am dropped of at Oneroa to find a cafe for lunch which gives me time for a wander and to sample some other wines over lunch whilst sat in the hot sun..... loving the Man O War Pinot Gris I have to say!

I am pleased I have been convinced to stay and enjoy the island longer.

I meet up with my friend and his family for a stroll on Onetangi beach and dinner in one of the sea side cafes...... I can see why he emigrated here, it really is lovely.

I am woken by an email from the kayak tour company..... my tour for Thursday is cancelled as I’m the only person for the full day tour. Damn (what is it with me and kayak trips). A half day tour is on offer which I accept with the thought that I will need to change my ferry again!

I have decided to spend the day walking around the island rather than getting the ferry service to Auckland.... the weather is so much better here...., from my camp site I walk all over. Through rain forest jungle, along beaches and some suburban roads.... all lovely and with amazing views. The winery on my route is the Frenchman’s Hill and in typical french style is closed!

Some pathways are closed for poisoning (pest control in NZ is huge!) so some minor detours are required but after 22km of strolling I am home.... I am now on a mission to empty the fridge and the make

shift drinks cabinet before I have to return the van. Waste not want not....... this probably wasn't the best time to try a bit of Astro Photography either!!... Head torch on and tripod in hand I stride down to the beach to take snaps...... I can only blame the wine for the blurry photos.

I have been warned about parking near the passenger ferry which is where the kayak trip is near so I get up early to move the van to try and nab a spot before the commuters take them all. Success and breakfast in the car park! sweet!

I arrive (early) at the kayak centre and mill about killing time. Strangely a young chap identifies me as Natasha and welcomes me for the trip.... I'm the only person on the half day tour too!!.... apparently a single guest is break even for a half day but not a full day tour.... fair enough.... it does mean I get to pair with my young guide in a double kayak again which is fine...... he diligently checks my health, whether I have packed my dry bag properly, have I applied sun cream...... I am feeling safe in Johno's hands although I am old enough to be his mum!

We paddle out avoiding the ferry and turn right out of Matiatia Bay and hug the coastline looking at birds and paddling in to crevices that if there were more guests he wouldn't go. We had a fun paddle and 4hrs flew past..... I think Johno enjoyed it too.... what a fabulous job!

I am collected by my friend for a farewell lunch at Cable Bay Winery, his local!. With amazing views and glorious sunshine it is a lovely goodbye to a beautiful island..... and I suppose to a good friend!

With sailing time rearranged again I am soon reversing my van on to the ferry deck, waving goodbye to this little piece of paradise and heading to Dorkland, sorry Auckland!

I choose to overnight in Ambury Regional Park and what a fabulous idea that was!

Ambury Farm lies along the coast of the Manukau Harbour in the suburb of Mangere Bridge. This is a significant habitat for shorebirds and the coast has examples of basalt lava flows.

I pull in to the camp ground just after 6pm, spend 20 mins wrestling with the Auckland City Council booking website and I am in. I set about the horrible job of trying to pack and clean the van while sipping on a G & T. I finish my chores just in time to see the best sunset of the trip.

I find the path down to the shore line and pick my way over the black lava flow which looks to me like dumped tarmac! Birds are gathering in the shallow water and the sun is setting and throwing its reflection across the water. Very photogenic!

Friday is all about saying a found farewell to my home on wheels....... I work through the checklist of things to do and pull into the Wilderness Campers offices at 9.45....... My name is on the arrivals board with a cheery 'welcome back!'...... hmmmm....... but I don't want to be back...... I want to carry on driving and living in my van.......... we have covered 4,050 km together...... been through tough times, rough drives and seen amazing things......... its hard to describe.......... sniff.....

Once I am dragged away from my van I make the journey in to

Auckland which feels very much like killing time before a flight. The highlight for the day is the Sky City Tower. My top tip from Johno yesterday was to book lunch in one of the restaurants and then you don't have to pay the $29 to go to the viewing deck at 220m above street level. Lunch isn't cheap but if you offset the entrance fee saving, the 1hr 30mins of slowly rotating through 360 degrees and the awesome views it is worth it..... the food isn't bad either!

That's it..... 3 weeks have flown by and I have to go home..........I have loved every minute of the trip and would do it all again in a heart beat....... but with more freedom camping!

New Zealand I love you and I WILL be back!