In this Valley, the Bicycle is Your Time Machine

The weather is perfect, just after the hurricane season. Not too hot and not too dry, but wonderfully sunny. Other tourists explore the Viñales Valley on horseback, but I opt for the mountain bike because the main attractions are hidden along the flat valley.

^{Photo: Lisa den Boer} 

The first route starts off gently, and the Mogotes (mountains with flat hilltops) emerge before my eyes as I navigate my way along the orange path, which contrasts beautifully with all the greenery. After about ten minutes of cycling, I see the first farmers picking tobacco plants and oxen plowing the fields.

^{Photos: Lisa den Boer} 

The Viñales Valley is located about three hours' drive from the capital, Havana. It's a relaxed, rural place from a bygone era. Everything is still done by hand and with the help of animals. The balance and mutual respect between nature and humans is clearly noticeable. The farmers smile kindly as they continue on with their animals.

^{Photo: Lisa den Boer} 

Narrow paths with mud puddles, tobacco plantations, oxen, horses, and caves adorn the valley. Occasionally, it's a bit of a puzzle with the bike. Because of course, you can easily get stuck in a path full of mud. But cycling provides a lot of freedom to explore special places where horses can't go, and the opportunity to fully take in your surroundings.

Using maps.me, I search for a café to rest and end up at the back of the San Miguel cave. At the foot of the almost completely enclosed valley stands a bar next to an enormous restaurant, set up for bus groups. There isn't a tourist in sight, and I lay my bike down to sit at a picnic table. The farmers are working in the plantation next to the bar. On one side, tobacco plants are being tended to, and on the other, cowboys saunter by. Cowboys with smartphones, that's something!

^{Photo: Lisa den Boer} 

In just one day, I zip along windy paths, meet local farmers, and get close to the prettiest Mogotes. A day of cycling in Viñales is an adventure in itself. It's a journey back in time, where you completely disconnect from everything you know from the Netherlands.

Tips for biking in Viñales Valley, Cuba

Renting a bike

Ask your Casa owner for someone who rents bikes. They probably know someone! Renting a bike costs ten CUC (just under ten euros) per day. Coordinate the time to pick up the bikes the night before. Do you have a Lonely Planet from 2017 or older? The bike rental mentioned in it is gone!

Navigation

There isn't much signage in the valley. Before going to Cuba, it's handy to download maps.me. With this app, you can easily download an offline map of the valley. The app works great offline for finding routes, restaurants, or other attractions.

What to bring

Bring plenty of water, a nice pair of sunglasses, and apply sunscreen several times throughout the day. It's also nice to have a muesli or granola bar.

What to wear

Comfortable shoes and lightweight or sportswear. Good shoes are handy for when you have to walk or climb a bit, for example through mud! Something for your head (a cap or hat) is also recommended.

Interacting with the locals

The people in the valley are quick to approach you. They'd like to sell you a mini-tour of the farm; for a small fee, you'll get an explanation of the tobacco process and a peek into their lives. Not interested? Make it clear immediately, but be friendly. For example, say, "no gracias."

^{Photo: Lisa den Boer}

Interested in more travel inspiration for Cuba? Also read: 10x Reasons to Depart for Cuba Now.