Shaki Old Town to Kish Village

Shaki was an important trading center on the Silk Road. The two floor limestone Caravanserai is ornate with a rose garden in the center. It served as a roadside inn for travelers. We walked through much of the Old City — limestone buildings restored after the Russians left, cobblestone streets, small shops lining the street. Halva, sugar-coated nuts, chocolate powdered almonds all available at the confectionery shop.

The Khan Palace was built as a summer residence for the Shaki Khan in the late 17th century. It is decorated in striking colored glass mosaics, wooden lattice work, floral tile panels, and frescoes. No pictures allowed within.

Following the palace tour we visited a glass window workshop to learn how the mosaic windows were made with tiny pegs instead of nails or glue. After a demonstration we all created (with help) our own small windows. We also stopped to visit a gentleman who created silk scarves using a wax and dye

method similar to batik but with vibrant colorful flowery designs.

Next adventure started with a fast, bumpy ride up a narrow mountain road by taxi — actually a very old, economy model Russian car. Kish Village is large, over 500 homes although only about 300 are occupied as people go elsewhere to work. We visited the Kish Albanian Church which is reported to be the oldest Christian church in the Southern Caucasus -1st century AD. It was built on the site of a pagan temple and has since been a mosque and other Christian churches. Well preserved architecture and a beautiful garden. We had a lunch in a family home across the street.

Mid-afternoon free time was a chance to repack the suitcase and read in the sunny hotel veranda.

Dinner featured a special regional dish “plov” which is a saffron-scented rice pilaf filled with chicken, chestnuts, dried fruits, herbs and spices. It is baked in a round pan and turned upside down on a platter. A trio of musicians played traditional Azerbaijani music for us during dinner.