29th - 31st October

Back in Edinburgh, I'm now cramming in all the things I meant to do when I arrived here. The National Museum of Scotland was one of them. Having flown through it with Kirsty in August, I then missed the Celts exhibition, and had plans to explore the rest of the museum instead.
Being a Saturday, I brought John along, and half a day later, we still hadn't taken in all that the museum as to offer.

With several different display sections and levels, there was a great variety and a hell of a lot to see. Science and technology had us inflating hot air balloons, gawking at robots, and looking at so many different types of machines and engines my late grandfather would have been proud. The Scottish section showed stones, weapons and other relics from Celtic and Pictish times, along with a detailed display on Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobite uprising. Moving on to the nature section, and an entire level was dedicated to endangered and extinct species. We saw a dodo skeleton, whale jaw bones, and quite a lot of information on various animals, birds and insects. The ceiling of all three levels had life sized fish, reptiles and mammals suspended, swimming in the air. All levels had either life-like models or taxidermied animals, to give a detailed impression of their size and appearance. There was even a skeleton of a Tyrannosaurus Rex dinosaur! The taxidermied animals were hard to see. I understand they were for educational purposes, but it still made me sad. I wouldn't want to end up stuffed in a museum.

We found a photographic exhibition, where the focus was on animals. Some of the shots were exquisite, and some of them made me gasp out loud. There was a section for under-twelve photography, and I can guarantee that some of these kids have bright futures if their standard of work continues.
Overall though, the museum is a fascinating and overwhelming place to visit. It would be a great place to bring kids, and I was like a big kid most of the day, pointing at things, going "What's THAT??!!"
If I was truly industrious about it, I'd take a couple of days to go through it in more detail, but my days here are limited now, and so I'll save it for my return.

Sunday afternoon, I booked a tour of the South Bridge vaults. Our tour began at the Mercat Cross, where all trade and proclamations used to occur. With a unicorn on the top, the Mercat Cross is only around a hundred years old, replacing a wooden one which would have stood further down the road. When James VI of Scotland became James I of England, it would take three days on horseback for news to arrive at the Cross, for official proclamation. Today, the Cross is still in use for that purpose, and Edinburgh holds onto the tradition of making announcements three days late.

Our tour took us down under Blair Street and South Bridge. The bridge itself isn't visible as a bridge, as the buildings alongside it block it off. It's built on a series of archways, with the resulting vaults underneath originally used as storage for the wealthier merchants on the street above.
Underneath South Bridge, you can't hear a thing. It's dark and silent, not a hint of the traffic three floors above. Our fabulous guide talked us through the decline of the vaults, from storage, illegal drinking and brewing, through to body-snatching and murder. It's dark, dank, and incredible. The stories she told only gave us an inkling of what life would have been like "back in the day", but my general summary is that it would have been dangerous and smelly. Edinburgh had a reputation for crime and poor hygiene. Today, it's one of the most wonderful places I've ever visited, and I'm rather glad to be here in this current century.

Monday, I took myself on a free walking tour of the city. Finally learning more of the buildings and history around me, our guide was nothing less than hilarious. He managed to tell the history of Edinburgh whilst making me laugh loudly and often! I was delighted to find that I now have my bearings quite well in the city, and despite

self doubt, I was able to guide my new Canadian friend around after the tour, without getting us lost once. For those who know me well, I hope you're applauding right now.

Monday night also happened to be Halloween. A festival originating in Scotland and Ireland, the entire country gets into the spirit. Yes, there may have been a triple meaning there. Weeks beforehand, shop displays include cobwebs, pumpkins, witch hats and all manner of Halloween related themes. Even the wedding dress shops changed their windows, and most pubs were decorated.
The origin of Halloween is with the end of the Celtic calendar, referred to as Samhuinn; Summer's end. It was thought that on this night, evil spirits were free to roam the earth, and ritual fires were burned to keep them at bay, and ensure the return of Spring sunshine. From the late 18th century, "guising" was the popular form of what is now trick or treating. Children performed a song or performance, disguised in clothes which allowed them to blend in with the roaming spirits. In return for their performance, a treat such as fruit or nuts was given. I wonder if kids today would appreciate an apple?

In celebration of Samhuinn, a performance occurred on the Royal Mile. In the pouring rain, dozens of costumed dancers and drummers proceeded down the mile, to a stage set up in front of the old parliament building. I was too short to see most of it properly, and too much in danger of meeting people's umbrellas with my eyes when I tried to weave through. What I did see, was fabulous. Painted faces, giant horns, dancing, torchlight and a group of drummers who kept a tribal beat for the two hour duration. Despite the rain, the crowds were large and thick, and the night had something of a magical air to it. Most people were dressed up, everyone was out to have fun, ignoring the rain in true Scottish style. No one quite so much as the

performers themselves, who were mostly in sleeveless costume, or, in a couple of male cases, bare chested. And what a sight they were to see. Dear Edinburgh, you have now provided me with vegan cake and eye candy. Thank you.