Kathryn >> Waking to the chill of a desert morning, occasional bird song, and numerous noises we like to think were Chincillas, it took at least an hour for the sun to climb high enough to reach us at the bottom of the dry river valley. Back tracking to the national park, we were greeted by a friendly ranger, who seemed to advise us that there were actually no Chinchillas to be seen here. We continued on, up another mountain pass. Every few kilometres, a small house would appear, some with small gardens, most with their own horse, and a few barren paddocks. The land rarely seemed to have any grass, yet the horses are all fat, the odd goat would appear, standing on two legs to pluck leaves from the shrubs. More and more, small towns began to appear as we descended into areas with deep dry river beds. Eventually we rejoined the Ruta 5, and the heavy north-bound traffic. The highway passed hundreds of giant wind turbines, and not much else. Stopping to pay two tolls, both on the same highway, with no notable towns or cross roads between, we again wondered at the incredible inefficiencies of Chilean administration. Stopping at a large Copec gas station, our attendant apparently over-filled the tank, as we worriedly watched Azulita drip diesel for a few minutes before all was well again. Lunching at a near by restaurant, we encountered our second set menu, which with 2 or 3 options, of which only one translated easily, our Spanish skills were stretched to the maximum. Along the highway a little further, past expansive olive farms, we turned off to Tongoy, a town we had read had free camping at the beach. Finding a few suitable spots to park along the coast, we ventured further and discovered a caravan park that seemed well organised and open! Met by the enthusiastic brother of the owner, who then enlisted a German visitor, we learned about the convoluted system of obtaining a hot shower . Coveting a toilet and WiFi, we picked a spot in an almost deserted park. Our German friend was travelling in the first caravan we have seen on the road. Shipped from Europe, they have been on the road for 3 years. Interestingly they and their friends have encountered the most crime & theft in Chile than any other South American country – contrary to most accounts of Chile. Their massive caravans are a however a little conspicuous. They have collected a stray dog along the way, which along with their friends' three, took it upon themselves to guard the park from intruders such as ourselves. All the dogs around seem friendly and I am left wondering how you determine which are strays as opposed to those who are just straying from home for the day. Perhaps James' refusal to let me buy some dog food to lure unsuspecting dogs to our van does have some merit, as I am left wondering how they co-exist in the van with, what would have to be flea ridden furry friends.