Up The Coast

Kathryn >> Setting off early from the camp ground, we did the several obligatory u-turns in order to navigate our way out of the small town of Tongoy. Passing more rows of highrise holiday apartments, we again joined the Ruta 5. We passed through the town of La Serena before hitting some major road works. In general, it takes almost twice as many people standing around, supervising a single man working than at home. Even more alarming than the low worker:supervisor ratio is the apparently completed appearance of the roads which remain closed. We travelled along on one side of a dual lane highway for probably 100km (keeping in mind our maximum speed is about 80, so this may or may not be accurate)

while workers continued to work on OUR side, and the opposite side, appearing completed remained closed and worker free. We gently (read slowly) climbed a mountain pass, resembling the dramatic zig-zag of the 'death valley' mountain pass featured on Top gear – see the prelude for reference before I was finally allowed to take the steering wheel and drive a little. You learn a lot about a car from a little highway driving. Mostly I discovered that 3rd is the only useful gear we have. You can coast down hills at 80km/hr in 5th, 4th is good for climbing molehills, but any kind of incline requires the mighty 3rd gear! I also came to realise just how slow our progress is; watching the speedo needle with it's signature bounce that could mean you are going anywhere between 55 and 70km/hr on a slight hill. Additional driver's side comforts include a seat belt who's retraction is impaired by the rear cabinetry and water works – I suppose there has to be sacrifices for such luxuries in a van! The constant operation of the window by James was explained a little

further as the drivers side receives a steady flow of warm air – it might be from the heaters or just the love that Azulita radiates for us. Other highlights of an otherwise barren landscape were 3 pieces of road kill- one perhaps a dog, the other two, small and furry – perhaps Chinchillas! Stopping for lunch at a deserted 'restaurant' to again negotiate lunch – this time with no menu but a rapidly fired off list of options of which we understood none. We then turned toward the coast and passing through the town of Vallenar and Huasco we found a highway that took up over some sand dune (yes you can build roads on sand dunes apparently) Winding along the coast, we abandoned our plan to stay in the near-by National park, instead pulling up in one of hundreds of campsites amongst the rocky coast line. Littered with fire pits and rubbish from previous campers, the firm sand offered awesome views of rocky coast lines and grey sanded beaches. James unfurled the shower and discovered it to be quite serviceable before whipping up steak and 3 veg. The classification of the canned peas as a vegetable is still questionable.