Marnhac to Montcuq: The Long Walk

Today's trek is 22 km, but we've opted to take the edge off by catching a ride for the first 4 km. Along the way, we pass Michele, who started earlier, and bid farewell to Didier at the drop-off point. It's a fresh morning at about 15 degrees, but it’s not too long before we start removing layers. Today's walk is mostly off-road tracks through the French countryside. We set a leisurely pace; there is no hurry for us, as we have the whole day to make our 18 km trek to Montcuq. The light and colours are amazing, and there is little noise apart from birdsong and our footsteps. We pass occasional villages and stop at about the 5 km mark at a picnic area to rest, rehydrate, and snack on some duck sausage we packed. We are visited by a European robin, who flits around the next picnic table.

The trek transitions from open fields to thicker bush and back to open fields. Halfway along, we come across fields of sunflowers. It must be the end of the season, as it's a patchwork of fields that have been slashed

alongside fields where the sunflowers have just started drooping. At our halfway mark to Montcuq, we come across a very small village with a café and stop for coffee and a panini. This is the first (and we hope only) place to serve us instant coffee. The panini is nice, though. We realize that this morning's walk was indeed leisurely when Michele walks in. We had about a 3 km head start on him this morning, and he has caught up. It's nice to see him, and we share some snacks before we wish him bonne journée and continue on our path.

We are guided by the red and white markings that indicate we are on the path, occasionally checking the Raw Travel route map when in doubt. It's an overcast day, but there’s little threat of rain. We pass many low stone walls that must be old historic boundary lines. Next to one of the old boundary markers is a small dry stone shelter. These are known as bories and are possibly centuries old. Further along, we pass a small church with no village or any other structures nearby. Inside, there are some pews and a small altar. There are also some small but beautiful stained glass windows and a side table covered in notes left by pilgrims for other pilgrims.

We pass several pilgrims today. One we meet has already walked several hundred kilometers. She is a genuine pilgrim, carrying everything in her backpack. As we near Montcuq, we come to a crossroads and see three pilgrims, who we know are headed to Montcuq (our destination), taking a track to the left. Our app indicates the path is straight ahead. We decide to put our faith in the app and push on. An hour or so later, we are only 150

meters from our destination (according to the app), but there is no village in sight. Then suddenly, just around a bend and at the bottom of our descending track, an entire village emerges before us. It is the most welcoming sight.

Our short walk into the village center is down a very quiet street. There are not many people around, but soon we reach the village center. There are two hotels across the road from each other. The first is just closing, but an Australian woman sitting out front directs us to the hotel across the road, where we reward our day's efforts with some very cold beer. Before long, she joins us. Her name is Eve, and she has a house here, spending several months a year in the village, then back in Melbourne for the rest of the year. We chat for a while and agree to meet for dinner the following night. We part wondering if she'd remember, she'd clearly had a long lunch.

After the rewarding beer we head for our accommodation. Its just around the corner, a 15th-century house converted into private hotel. Its truly amazing. All rooms are access from a central stone spiral staircase. The edges of the stone steps are rounded and polished from hundreds of years of foot traffic. The rooms have very high ceilings and there is an enormous central fire place. We can imagine great cauldrens of food hanging over the fire. Our host Yolande is very welcoming.

After settling in to our room, unpacking and taking a rest we head down town for dinner an evening stroll. There is only one restaurant open this evening, which is the same hotel we stopped at on the way in. We are delighted to see Cassoulet on the menu, as it's a famous regional dish that we've taken a liking to. The village is very quite, but the restaurant is full as its the only one open. We can hear several different languages being spoken and discover there is quite a large expat community here, consisting of English, Scottish, Americans and Australians. After dinner and an evening stroll we retire early to our 15th-century hotel.

Our rest day in Montcuq begins with fresh croissants, as does every day in France. We spend our rest day exploring the little village with its narrow streets and historic buildings. There are many pilgrims wandering through today. We seem to be the only one's not using hiking poles. We take lunch and dinner at different restaurants and delight in the regional cuisine. It's becoming apparent that Australian supermarket produce is largely favourless. French chicken tastes like the chicken from our childhood memories. Eve was a no show for dinner, she clearly didhave a very long lunch.

Montcuq is a very beautiful village the time has come to continue on our

path. We pack early on our final day as the suitcases need to be downstairs by 8am for transfer collection, there are 3 straight days for walking ahead of us. We take our last breakfast with Yolande in the 15th century living room, then head our the door on today's 14km walk.

Next stop Lauzerte....