Returning to the Mountains

OK we have some catching up to do, we've had a busy time enjoying Guatemala and getting through Mexico so a little behind...

Max made us breakfast and joined us in the next town over, Isla Flores. An old colonial island on a lake made up of cobbled streets, colourful houses and views over the lake and surrounding jungle, now understandably a tourism hub. We had to skip town though and start our 5 day return journey back into the mountains, towards the bulk of Guatemala's population and more amazing sights. After 2-3hrs that afternoon the main road gave way to a large river and beyond, on the far bank, the town we aimed to stop. We filed onto the rickety barge that was being driven by a guy on each side in nothing more than a bathtub with an outboard engine and a brolly, yet they drove well!

We stayed in the town of Sayaxche overnight, watching the ferry crossings on the beautiful river. A busy jungle hub town where life centred on the rivers. Walking into town for groceries was enough to shock the locals, turning heads and scaring kids I came back with supplies and three marriage proposals. They clearly didn't get many tourists stopping in!

The next morning we spent at a National Park, perfectly cool with an amazing round lake fed by a natural spring, similar to the Mexican cenotes. It had a strong peace to it, with no one else around and hundreds of feet cleaning fish in the crystal waters we kicked back on the jetty. I asked one of the caretakers who was drying a huge snake skin if it was good for swimming, he replied 'oh yeah of course, the waters great, full of crocs though'! We passed on much more than a paddle and we moved on after sharing a small English tea party with two lovely old locals, biscuits and all, and chatted as best we could. We had no real destination that day other than onwards, tried to pull off the road towards one last ruined temple but the road was awful so we pushed on.

The landscape started to change, we left the flat jungle behind us late in the afternoon to see the beginning of the limestone hills we were to spend the next few days in, peppered with caves and rivers and small villages of ancient tribes. Half an hour left of the days drive to a campsite for the night, we passed through a small town to join a huge traffic jam. Rumour was there had been a bad

accident and the road ahead was closed for the night, no detour available we retraced our steps into town to work out a plan.

Pulled into a servo at the other end of the road, a busy little place, everything centred on the main road so understandably it was a bit of chaos. Opposite the servo stood a lovely church on a rise with plenty of space, figured I'd try my luck and went to ask if we could park on the grounds and leave early next day, no problem. By the time I'd got back to the van, dealt with a small battery issue, driven across the road to the church and parked up, day guard had changed to night guard and he was less than pleased about the situation and booted us back to the servo! Which was fine, it had a big dirty carpark but by now the entire town was aware we we here, we had some chats and waved to many folk. As we were settling in for the night a tuk-tuk pulled up next to us and a whole family piled out, in need of a toilet stop, but saw us and spent half an hour chatting and poking our evidently, very strange life! Everyone had been very nice, just very curious and we certainly stuck out, by now we had also left the Spanish speaking Guatemala and were having to decipher ancient Maya tongue.

Next day we moved on early, keen to escape the road for a minute and the morning drive was fantastic. Winding through the limestone hills until the ascent began, a semi-main road pass back towards the bigger settlements. A couple of hours uphill, the road cutting

straight through a big market (which became a common theme), we pulled off onto a random dirt track. It lead 2kms into a small and very simple village, we paid our entrance and dropped down onto the most wonderful river swimming hole we'd ever seen and a big open grass field. That was that, it was early in the day, maybe only 10am but it was too good to leave so we stayed for the night.

The river ran a perfect turquoise blue and the swimming hole was almost a lake it was so big. The trees overhanging all around and the sides scattered with beautifully coloured laundry ladies with an endless supply of clothes to wash and kids in tow. We'd set up camp, slung some hammocks, made coffee and swam, not quite believing this paradise we'd discovered. It took a couple of hours but the kids broke truce first, not able to help their curiosity. It started with a couple coming to say hi, not long later it was double figures! The ladies all smiled and waved. We played and swam and entertained, they were fascinated by everything we had, the highlight being our swimming goggles, which we left with them.

We chilled all day, kids came and went, they poked our stuff and taught us local language that I took to the village to surprise others

at the small store. The evening brought the village men to the waterside, who after bathing, sat to audience around our camp and as the day darkened we finally had the place to ourselves, full of our own curiosities and yet more wonder for this place, this village, so removed from the world yet so pure and happy, Mayans living their life the same as it may have been for 500 or 1000 years. The fireflies came out with the moon and we slept soundly.