South America & Antarctica, Dec 2004 - Jan 2005

Olà del Fin del Mundo! Soi in Tierra del Fuego despues d’un viaje dificil. Ayer en Ratley, ahora in Ushuaia – sin equipaje – nos ropa en alguna parte de Europa. O Chile. O Argentina. (That’s enough Spanish – Ed). But you get the picture. The good news is: we’re here, and that’s excellent news, devoutly to be hoped for. The drive in a people carrier in the Friday evening traffic was dull, slow and cold. We dressed for the heat of Buenos Aires (with layer potential) but had to scrounge a rug to ward off draughts. Heathrow was cold, damp, windy and horrible. Much worse than here at the end of the world at 55°S where it’s cold, dry, windy and bright. Except when it’s raining, dull, windy and ‘minging.’ They call it ‘Four Seasons A Day’ weather. But more of this anon. Back to the journey. Heathrow to Madrid? A breeze – apart from a one hour delay that required regular applications of beer and St John’s Wort and visits to Passenger Information. Madrid to Santiago? Well, after negotiating seat swaps with three gay but serious trekkers, and fighting off a family who’d already swapped twice, we were in thin book-passing distance of each other for the 13.5 hour flight. Dull, but rotten TV vis. so slept lots. Had charge of Alexander, an 11 year old Moroccan with a cast-iron bladder in my window seat. Good view/access to loos. In Santiago, got first glimmer of luggage making bid for freedom – it may or may not have arrived, and the flight number on our tickets didn’t exist. Nor did the flight departure time. However, sympathetic security man and horrid LAN Chile staff helped/hindered us on board. Crossing Buenos Aires was done at high speed because of the delay in reporting our luggage lost, but looks worth a revisit. And it was hot and sunny. Boo hoo. Ushuaia is reached over lots of Andes and green desert and sprawls. But in SUCH a spot!

Shona Walton

21 chapters

Sábado 18 de diciembre

Ushuaia

Olà del Fin del Mundo! Soi in Tierra del Fuego despues d’un viaje dificil. Ayer en Ratley, ahora in Ushuaia – sin equipaje – nos ropa en alguna parte de Europa. O Chile. O Argentina. (That’s enough Spanish – Ed). But you get the picture. The good news is: we’re here, and that’s excellent news, devoutly to be hoped for. The drive in a people carrier in the Friday evening traffic was dull, slow and cold. We dressed for the heat of Buenos Aires (with layer potential) but had to scrounge a rug to ward off draughts. Heathrow was cold, damp, windy and horrible. Much worse than here at the end of the world at 55°S where it’s cold, dry, windy and bright. Except when it’s raining, dull, windy and ‘minging.’ They call it ‘Four Seasons A Day’ weather. But more of this anon. Back to the journey. Heathrow to Madrid? A breeze – apart from a one hour delay that required regular applications of beer and St John’s Wort and visits to Passenger Information. Madrid to Santiago? Well, after negotiating seat swaps with three gay but serious trekkers, and fighting off a family who’d already swapped twice, we were in thin book-passing distance of each other for the 13.5 hour flight. Dull, but rotten TV vis. so slept lots. Had charge of Alexander, an 11 year old Moroccan with a cast-iron bladder in my window seat. Good view/access to loos. In Santiago, got first glimmer of luggage making bid for freedom – it may or may not have arrived, and the flight number on our tickets didn’t exist. Nor did the flight departure time. However, sympathetic security man and horrid LAN Chile staff helped/hindered us on board. Crossing Buenos Aires was done at high speed because of the delay in reporting our luggage lost, but looks worth a revisit. And it was hot and sunny. Boo hoo. Ushuaia is reached over lots of Andes and green desert and sprawls. But in SUCH a spot!

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