India - August 1991

As we promised ourselves, we “shopped our behinds off” - as Doug Cook said. After a late start, due to the fact that rooms were hard to find last night, we calculated expenditure to a nicety. By the time we’d posted our last 4 cards, and lounged in Connaught Central Park for half an hour before dinner, we had 5 Rs + 47 pence left. We dallied with the idea of a Limca, Thums Up (sic) or Gold Spot, but nothing could compare with the offer of a massage. “OK, for 5 Rs, I’ll do a foot massage”. So he did, and very nice it was too, even if it tickled. The audience of a dozen men thought so too, until Adrian passed round the hat, asking for " 5 Rs a look”. That got rid of half of them. You can’t sneeze in India without acquiring an inane, grinning crowd. Indians can spit, shit, pee, die even, but a European has only to look into a shop window, or drink an aerated water to be the centre of attention - usually curious and amused, though with more of a snigger if it's adolescent boys. Yawn. And don’t argue with the husslers, ‘cos that’s a big turn on. Yawn again. Although this hotel is run by grabbers (wanted upfront payment!!), it’s a whole lot better than the ones the Ex-Servicemen’s bus driver took us to: smelly, grimy and with soggy carpets. Ugh. Adrian got very cross and had to shout and bang to get them to take us somewhere decent. All full as it happened, but a tout picked us up, taking us to 5 hotels where he gets commission before finding this one ‘3 Km out of the centre. Still, by 0015 we weren’t totally ungrateful.

Shona Walton

19 chapters

15 Apr 2020

Thursday 29th August

Delhi

As we promised ourselves, we “shopped our behinds off” - as Doug Cook said. After a late start, due to the fact that rooms were hard to find last night, we calculated expenditure to a nicety. By the time we’d posted our last 4 cards, and lounged in Connaught Central Park for half an hour before dinner, we had 5 Rs + 47 pence left. We dallied with the idea of a Limca, Thums Up (sic) or Gold Spot, but nothing could compare with the offer of a massage. “OK, for 5 Rs, I’ll do a foot massage”. So he did, and very nice it was too, even if it tickled. The audience of a dozen men thought so too, until Adrian passed round the hat, asking for " 5 Rs a look”. That got rid of half of them. You can’t sneeze in India without acquiring an inane, grinning crowd. Indians can spit, shit, pee, die even, but a European has only to look into a shop window, or drink an aerated water to be the centre of attention - usually curious and amused, though with more of a snigger if it's adolescent boys. Yawn. And don’t argue with the husslers, ‘cos that’s a big turn on. Yawn again. Although this hotel is run by grabbers (wanted upfront payment!!), it’s a whole lot better than the ones the Ex-Servicemen’s bus driver took us to: smelly, grimy and with soggy carpets. Ugh. Adrian got very cross and had to shout and bang to get them to take us somewhere decent. All full as it happened, but a tout picked us up, taking us to 5 hotels where he gets commission before finding this one ‘3 Km out of the centre. Still, by 0015 we weren’t totally ungrateful.