Spent the day with Doug, glad of our company, visiting temples and the City Palace, a very big place accreted over the years with exquisite mirror-work and glass mosaic. Strangely, none of the windows we had access to looked out over the lake but there were excellent views of the town - quite spread out with lots of trees - and the Avittar mountains, whence we saw spectacular rain fronts cross the town. Across the lake from our waterside verandah are the dhobi ghats, divided by gender. The men have a smaller section (it’s the only bit of Indian society that works that way) because the women need more space to do the washing of clothes. From dawn, there was the slap-thump of wet laundry being cudgelled into submission, if not cleanliness. Scum floated thick amongst the water hyacinths as fully-clothed women soaped themselves inside their saris, one hand always trying to keep their headcover in place. Other women, too old to care, stripped to the waist. At nightfall, the water weeds had been raked to rot on land, but the scum was still there. The streets of Udaipur are amazingly narrow, and in today’s rain, came close to treacherous on occasion. The pot-holes are legion and stygian, bubbling vats for the unwary. A lovely contrast was the ‘Maids of Honour’ Gardens. (Sakeliyon ki Bari) with fountains they’d turn on for 2Rs extra! We paid. It was wonderful to walk in gardens with healthy plants, plenty of water, and no husslers. We checked at Indian Airlines and are up to 1 and 2 on standby for the Kujarajo flight. Goody.
Shona Walton
19 chapters
15 Apr 2020
Udaipur
Spent the day with Doug, glad of our company, visiting temples and the City Palace, a very big place accreted over the years with exquisite mirror-work and glass mosaic. Strangely, none of the windows we had access to looked out over the lake but there were excellent views of the town - quite spread out with lots of trees - and the Avittar mountains, whence we saw spectacular rain fronts cross the town. Across the lake from our waterside verandah are the dhobi ghats, divided by gender. The men have a smaller section (it’s the only bit of Indian society that works that way) because the women need more space to do the washing of clothes. From dawn, there was the slap-thump of wet laundry being cudgelled into submission, if not cleanliness. Scum floated thick amongst the water hyacinths as fully-clothed women soaped themselves inside their saris, one hand always trying to keep their headcover in place. Other women, too old to care, stripped to the waist. At nightfall, the water weeds had been raked to rot on land, but the scum was still there. The streets of Udaipur are amazingly narrow, and in today’s rain, came close to treacherous on occasion. The pot-holes are legion and stygian, bubbling vats for the unwary. A lovely contrast was the ‘Maids of Honour’ Gardens. (Sakeliyon ki Bari) with fountains they’d turn on for 2Rs extra! We paid. It was wonderful to walk in gardens with healthy plants, plenty of water, and no husslers. We checked at Indian Airlines and are up to 1 and 2 on standby for the Kujarajo flight. Goody.
1.
Saturday 10th - Monday 12th August
2.
Tuesday 13th August 1991
3.
Wednesday 14th August
4.
Thursday 15th August
5.
Friday 16th August
6.
Saturday 17th August
7.
Sunday 18th August
8.
Monday 19th August
9.
Tuesday 20th August 1991
10.
Wednesday 21st August 1991
11.
Thursday 22nd August
12.
Friday 23rd August
13.
Saturday 24th August
14.
Sunday 25th August
15.
Monday 26th August
16.
Tuesday 27th August
17.
Wednesday 28th August
18.
Thursday 29th August
19.
Epilogue - 5th September 1991