The best family adventures in wintery South Tyrol

For years we have dreamed of a trip to South Tyrol : the northernmost Italian province, where the sharp peaks of the Dolomites tower above everything and where alpine traditions go hand in hand with Mediterranean lifestyle. So we didn't have to look far for a winter sports destination: it became South Tyrol.

It is the first winter sports trip with our two children, Maeve (4 years old) and Miles (1 year old). We are therefore traveling to a family-friendly ski area: the Seiser Alm , also called Alpe di Suisi. This large sunny alm with impressive rock formations in the background has many blue slopes, which makes it a perfect area for beginners and families. I will take you on an adventure in wintery South Tyrol!

Sledding and playing in the snow

On the first day it snows all day. The children love it! They have never seen such a thick layer of snow and so many white flakes falling from the sky. We grab one of the sledges that are at the hotel and set off. Bad Ratzes, our hotel, is located at an altitude of 1200 metres, right on a crystal clear, half-frozen river in the Schlern-Rosengarten area nature park. In the shadow of the majestic Santnerberg. We sled along hiking trails surrounded by snow-covered pine trees and over narrow bridges. We don't get very far. Maeve and Miles dive into the snow: time to build snowmen and catch snowflakes with their mouths. I look up at the mountain peaks that rise high above us. Finally we are in the Dolomites!

On the track

The second day we hit the slopes. We board the gondola at Seis am Schlern, which takes us to the Seiser Alm, at an altitude of over 1800 metres. Maeve and Miles look delicious, wrapped up warm in their ski suits. They stare in amazement as we travel up the mountains. About ten minutes later we get off at the ski resort from where we look out over the famous peaks of the Dolomites. Maeve gets her very first skiing lesson today, from ski instructor Max from Ski School Sciliar 3000 . Max shows her how to make a small house and a big house with her skis, which makes her go slower or faster. 'Kleine haus, grosse haus,' he repeats. Before we know it, Maeve is making her first runs on the children's slope. So much fun to see how quickly she gets the hang of it!

The largest ski area in the Dolomites

In total we booked three private lessons for Maeve. On the second day I explore the ski area myself with guide Sarah. Robin stays with Miles to watch Maeve. While one of the ski lifts takes us higher into the mountains, Sarah tells us that the Seiser Alm is connected to Val Gardena. Together they form an area with 181 km of slopes and 79 lifts, making it the largest ski area in the Dolomites. It has been three years since I last skied, so my technique could use some improvement. While we explore several blue and red slopes, she helps me improve my posture. The next morning I notice that my skiing is going much better. The children stay in the childcare of our hotel for a morning, so we can go out together to explore the Seiser Alm further. What a luxury! It is only the second time that Robin is on skis, so guide Matteo helps him improve his technique. In a few years, we will be whizzing down the slopes here with the whole family!

Winter walking

The Seiser Alm is not only a fantastic ski area. It is also great for tobogganing, cross-country skiing and winter hiking. Our guide Matteo recommended a hiking route to the Baita Tuene mountain hut. 'About half an hour's walk, without children. And an hour with,' he jokes. On the slopes we rent a sledge for Maeve and a snow-proof stroller for Miles, in which he can sleep comfortably, and then we set off. We walk and glide through the nature reserve on the smooth white hiking trails, while we watch skiers and snowboarders whizz past on the slopes. On the other side, a few cross-country skiers pass us: the Seiser Alm has no less than 80 kilometres of cross-country skiing trails .

Unfortunately, we don't make it to the mountain hut. Maeve is cold and tired, so we decide to turn back early. That's also part of traveling with children. We've hiked a large part uphill, so we can now sled part of the way back. I get on the back of Maeve, who is strapped into a seat, and we zoom down at high speed. We're both doubled over with laughter. That makes us want more! Now we thought it was still a bit too risky with Miles, but next time we're here we'll definitely explore one of the toboggan runs in the area . Because we'll definitely come back, to beautiful South Tyrol!

Our hotel

A nice family hotel is indispensable when you travel with children. That is why we chose Bad Ratzes , a four-star hotel in the middle of nature, at the end of a dead-end road. Here they have everything you could wish for as a family: cots and high chairs, a swimming pool, playrooms, extensive breakfast and dinner, baby carriers, sledges and strollers that you can borrow and a huge garden with play equipment, bordering a nature park full of beautiful hiking trails. There is even daily childcare available, with sweet teachers who also take the children outside. Nice if you want to go skiing yourself or relax in the outdoor sauna of the hotel.

The journey

The good accessibility of the Seiser Alm was an additional reason for us to choose this area. Since December 2022, SkyAlps flies from Antwerp to Bolzano. Both airports are very small, which makes traveling very relaxed, especially with children. In just under two hours you can fly to South Tyrol. From Bolzano airport it is only a half hour drive to the Seiser Alm.

This trip was made possible by the South Tyrol Tourist Office , who organised this family press trip for us. Want to go on an adventure in South Tyrol yourself? Get inspired >