Dolphins 0 Hammerheads 3

Our journey was a short one but only started after morning coffee from the van opposite our accommodation. Sitting drinking it on the benches by the water was idylic. Coromandel is a beautiful place and our time here has been too short. In truth that can be said about most of the places we have been to. Travelling around NZ is fun, as we get to see a lot of the countryside but we have decided that our next travels we will not stay at so many locations in one trip. Coromandel was sad to see us go too as we left to our first shower.

We were heading for the other side of Auckland so we had fun driving on their motorway for a while. A bit of a shock being on a four lane road after the roads we had been on, a bit like the M25 but no official variables speeds.

We were staying in The Bush House Retreat, a cross between a Bali style jungle house and a Minka (a traditional Japanesehouse). The

pictures should help my explanation. With a glass wall you felt as if you were camping in the Bush, but drier and without the worry of creepy crawlies. The most interesting fun was using the bathroom that was located in a separate room outside. The two sliding doors to get there meant that any visits were not unannounced.

The local museum was well worth the visit. The building design was a display in itself using multilevel floors and windows to create a very light open space. The natual characteristics of the area had encouraged artists to locate there, a lot like St Ives, and the gallery displayed their and local students works, particularly their pottery.

The nearest main surf beach was at Murawai, which is one of the strangest ever. Murky sand, with black earth and sand dunes behind. With poor visibility at the time due to a mist the whole place looked bleak and a bit eerie. A very atmospheric place, but don't think the Japanese tourists thought so.

On the journey back we found a winery with tasting cellar open, so we had to visit to support local business. I had not realised that grapes were grown in this region so was pleasantly surprised to find wineries. Turns out that Northland was one of the first areas in NZ to have commercial growers. My ignorance was excused by the fact that very little produced is exported. Pity because what I tasted and bought was good.

Being a Friday evening we decided to visit Hallertau Brewery, which appears to be the local haunt for workers, family gatherings and charity events. All of which were going on while we were there. Our interest was different, a drink and the last rays of sunshine. Whilst the food looked tempting we had decided on a curry takeaway for our last night here, and we kept the faith. The experience of eating this in our chalet was not to be missed, without worktops tray's etc to make serving easier.

Our journey North was going to take the best part of the day but we decided to visit Devonport, a town opposite Auckland. Quaint with Edwardian houses, a great art gallery and its own chocolate factory where we had to top up our supplies. Unfortunately the single bean was not as good as the Wellington chocolate, which seems to be a hard act to follow.

We had decided to spend five nights in one location in the Bay of Islands, at The Shed which was much better than the name conjures up. Good accommodation, facilities and a washing machine (which is becoming a plus in our journey). Only downside is the steep wood stairs to our bedroom. The newly laid eggs we were given was a nice touch. Our vist into the local town, Paihia for supplies had to be delayed until later, after the Xmas Parade, after all it was 1st December!

Paihia is a major tourist town in the region with boat trips around the

Bay, dolphin watching trips, a ferry to Russell, beaches and just outside Waitangi Treaty Grounds a very special place in the Maori and NZ settlers history.

I had initially wanted to do a 'swim with dolphins' trip but decided against this and we went on a sailing trip instead. This was good decision for many reasons, not only was it a day sailing surrounded by beautiful islands, we also were supplied with a lot of local information and history by the skipper and landed on a deserted island where we were able to snorkel. Whilst we didn't see any dolphins we saw three hammerhead sharks as we sailed past. One of our best days yet!

Watching the dolphin watch boats chase after the pod that were in the Bay I was grateful that I chose not to do this. I know that they had not sighted dolphins for a week prior to this but I was not surprised given the way they appeared to be hounding them. They will probably leave the area in the future if this continues.

We went to a Hangi (traditional Maori meal) and Concert for an evening at the Treaty Grounds. Unfortunately we had understood that the grounds and Museum were open until the event started but when we arrived late in the day discovered they closed an hour before which meant we didn't really have enough time to explore the

place. Pity as the museum deserved more time!

The evening was entertaining with a walk thru the grounds interspersed with traditional haka challenges. A Maori welcoming, concert and a meal cooked using modern equipment to replicate the ancient cooking methods.

The beaches in this region are numerous and all a delight. Golden sands again, and all with wonderful views of the Bay. Visited a sculpture park and exotic gardens that were interesting. A lot of the works incorporating recycled materiaIs.

On our last day we caught the ferry to Russell. The properties here are more expensive but the land is similar. Found a great beach where I went rockpooling. Spent a long time watching tiny crabs chase each other around pools. The variety of shells they inhabited was fascinating.

Russell was the original capital of New Zealand before it was moved to Auckland. It was also where one of the wars between Moari's and

settlers started due to an English flag being flown from a flagpole. Now it is a quiet place which caters for the tourists that visit and like them we did the round of the gift shops, including one chocolatier. Still not as good !

On our way back to the Ferry we visited probably the best located winery so far. Sat outside with a glass and a view over the vineyard out to the Bay. lt was a pity that we had a meal cooking in the slow cooker or we would have stayed for the evening.