An early start this morning to take a dawn boat ride along the Ganges, this was going to be the highlight for many of us on the trip. Before you can get to the water you have to run a gauntlet through the narrow main streets with shopkeepers and other traders trying to convince you to buy offerings to float on the ganges at sunset, they offered beautiful necklaces of marigolds, small dishes with candles and flowers.

The buildings are all on one side of the ganges at Varanasi and is made up of a series of ghats which is a series of hotels with steps leading down to the river; the river is sacred and is used by Hindus for washing clothes, themselves and a couple are used for cremations. Varenasi exists where it does because it is here where the river is slow enough for the various activities and is the only place this sacred river runs northwards. Hindus believe that to take your last breath in Varanasi will give true salvation and many believers will make journeys from all over the Hindu world with their dying loved ones so that this can happen. Once a person has died, the body's is wrapped in cloth and ceremonial gown and quickly dipped into the ganges, the coverings then have to dry before being cremated. The male members of the family then offer prayers and carry out ceremonies to wish the spirit on its way.

We didn't see many cremations thankfully but we did see a few ceremonies conducted.

Our boat was a long boat rowed by 2 young men, they took us up and down the ganges so that we saw all 86 ghats, music and chanting was being played all along the rivers edge adding to the atmosphere; it is amazing how the local people put up with us gawping tourists at such intimate ceremonies, but Yadu says that they really don't mind at all providing we are respectfully interested in their customs. There were many ladies in groups washing themselves and the children cheerfully waving and smiling to us. Of course the canny salesman is always close by and we were invaded by 2 boats selling small trinkets - they don't like to miss a sales opportunity!!

After our lovely boat ide we were back to the hotel for breakfast and a bit of r&r and roam the streets of Varanasi.

Later that evening we went back to the ganges for a sunset boat trip and witness another ceremony performed by the local holy people as the say goodnight to the Ganges and let her sleep.., 'putting the river to bed'. There was more beautiful music and chanting as well as various chalice like objects, pitchers and other instruments held by the holy men offering them to the Ganges, some of the chalices were very heavy and Yadu said that the ceremony is so long and arduous that the holy men have a rota as to who takes part in the ceremony, it seems like its only the young and strong.

Again it was all so very beautiful, so serene; this ceremony goes on every night and has thousands of visitors, many, from all over the world. It really is quite a privilege to be allowed to take part. We all considered that this will be a highlight of our holiday. Astonishingly, one member of our group had been to Varenasi before with another tour group.., 'Saga' and cannot remember being offered the evening ceremony, even as an 'optional'.