Finding a rhythm

Even as you arrive, you start to notice; coming off a packed overnight flight the floors and seats (normally a jumbled mass of discarded wrapping, jumbled blankets and dropped food) are spotless. Everything is neatly folded or in the rubbish bin. The experience continues as you are effortlessly and speedily guided through the airport formalities by smiling staff. The airport train (and indeed all trains and metro trains) are spotless inside and out, no grime, no rubbish and certainly no graffiti.

This is our 3rd visit to Japan as tourists, we came first almost 40 years ago and again in 2014. I also made a couple of hard work but very enjoyable business trips in the late ‘90s. A lot has changed in that time, both us, the world and Japan and we’re looking forward to our updated experience. Back in 1987 we were shoestring backpackers in our 20’s; with a limited budget, the exchange rate against us, we had only summer clothes and it was February, cold, very cold. We had a memorable time! Our rucksacs weighed 20kg and that year Japan had 1.9 million overseas visitors.

Now we are retired with our pensions burning a hole in

our pockets, it’s spring, we have better clothes, our rucksacs are 6kg lighter, though feeling just as heavy, we are also a few years older! Last year Japan had 36.8 million visitors (with 13.4 million last time we came in 2014).

Unusually for us, we don’t have a detailed itinerary. The guide books lay undisturbed all year, we were just too busy with life, working on a big DIY project to improve the wall and ceiling insulation of our dormer bedrooms, a overlong installation of a heat pump, switching to high mains water pressure which we loved, but our ageing pipes less so, 3 months clearing up after the resultant flood, rerouting of our pipes, making good etc.

We are going to be away for several years so we also prepared for departure, clearing our house for renting, sorting, giving away, packing, choosing essentials for the Australia-bound tea chests. Trips around the country to distribute belongings, to say farewell to family and friends, hand over my pickleball club duties and play a last few games with our lovely friends in the Bromley club.

So, as we set off, finally, on March 13th we didn’t have an itinerary, but we did have a simple plan. Rent an apartment in Osaka for two weeks, and just take each day as it came. Along with our guidebooks we had packed our gym clothes and pickleball paddles - as well as sightseeing we were intent on experiencing as many everyday things as possible, albeit in a Japanese way. We weren’t in a hurry, we are planning to be in Japan for 6 months.

So 13 days later, we’re starting to find our rhythm. The first few days were tough, poor weather and jet lag are not ideal companions. The suburban streets seemed grey, sterile, a concrete jungle, anonymous and functional. If you give your head a chance though and stop & look around, there is plenty to lift a flagging spirit. Here and there a dash of colour, beautiful Japanese script and simple, stylised adverts. Everyone walks or cycles, the tiny cars are off the streets, tucked away in equally tiny car ports, everything is clean and tidy. Front doors adorned with small gardens or flower display, each beautifully and lovingly maintained. Any manner of enticing cafes and eateries, beckoning you into their cosy interiors. Naturally, no litter.

Then the sun comes out and the colours start to pop, those spirits rise and life seems pretty good.

We’ve walked 114 miles in our 13 days! As much as possible we’ve aimed for parks and gardens (especially nearby Osaka castle park with its perfect plum blossom and equally perfect bakery cafe, a place to people watch to your heart’s content). So much to see

too; fashions, pets, hairstyles, photographers - everywhere people posing for that perfect blossom photo, many in their beautiful Sunday best.

Osaka is a huge city and we’ve made extensive use of their metro system - in fact quite a lot of walking is done at interchanges where the separate private lines connect, but only just! Our first memories from 1987 are arriving at huge Ueno station in Tokyo, with a sea of rushing bodies, signs everywhere but just a solitary one in English, in the farthest corner. These days the madness persists, the signs are many but everything is replicated in English. The interchanges, daunting at first, are quite straightforward if you follow the many signs, arrows and painted lines in the colour of your desired operator. Coloured areas on the platform edges even tell you where the doors will open for your route - helping make sure you

get on the right train. It’s all a far cry from trying to follow the number of stops on a physical map, matching up the Kanji characters along the way.

Osaka has offered up some amazing sites; the majestic castle, the weird and wonderful Temple of the Sun at the Expo 70 park, the brilliant and colourful art of Koji Kinutani, the jaw dropping scale of the aquarium, the sobering earthquake museum in Kobe and a wonderful side trip to the magnificent temples and cedar forests in Koyasan (with fresh snowfall to enhance the experience). Even a pot noodle museum to experience!

We’ve tried out a local gym and had a morning playing pickleball with some delightful Japanese ladies. To cap it off, a fair bit of blossom - plum & peach as the warm up acts for the biggie just

around the corner.

A final word on food. In 1987 we could barely afford to eat, surviving on hostel meals and banana sandwiches. Even with the cash, there was virtually nothing to entice non-meat eaters. Today the scene is completely different, eating out is about half the price of Europe and we’ve eaten magnificently in Osaka, with different vegan choices every night, culminating with the absolutely sublime Buddhist meal at our overnight temple stay in Koyasan. I appreciate that not everywhere will be like Osaka, but it’s been a tremendous start.