The North Coast 500: Scotland's Most Beautiful Road Trip

It's hard to concentrate on reversing uphill to a passing place when the sunset bathes the islands off Scotland's west coast in an orange-pink light. Most roads on Scotland's North Coast 500 are as wide as a single car, and it's always a challenging puzzle to figure out how to pass oncoming vehicles. Fortunately, the local residents are very patient and wave kindly, after which we continue driving along the most beautiful route I've ever taken.

The North Coast 500 starts in the Scottish city of Inverness in the northwest of Scotland. Through the Highlands, we cross over to the west coast of Scotland, where we drive north from Lochcarron along the coast. The North Coast 500 is certainly not the fastest or most direct route to John o' Groats, the northernmost point of the route. The 830-kilometer route winds its way through rugged landscapes and along white sandy beaches and picturesque villages. We drove the route along the west coast from Lochcarron to Ullapool, and the rest of the route is still at the top of my bucket list.

The Scottish West Coast

Accompanied by my mother and our two Border Collies, I embark on the North Coast 500 adventure in Lochcarron. We hit the jackpot: whitewashed houses along an inlet surrounded by hills. The hills are colored reddish-brown in autumn, and any trees here were cut down long ago to heat the houses. A few kilometers outside the village, my mother is immediately exposed to the biggest challenge on the North Coast 500: the road from Bealach na Bá to Applecross. She stresses about the scarce passing places, the sharp bends in the road, and the slope of the mountain pass.

The route climbs to 626 meters in eight kilometers. I can't stop raving about the breathtaking view we have from this road. The Hebrides, islands off the west coast of Scotland, bathe in the warm pink-orange light of the sunset, while the last sunlight gently brushes over the hills of the mainland. In many shades of gray-pink, the hills on the different islands stand out against the orange sky. From a parking lot at the top of the pass, we enjoy the view together, while the dogs obediently pose for a group of photographers who have also come to enjoy the sunset.

Continuing northward along the coast, we see small sandy beaches to our left, with the hills of the Hebrides behind them. To our right, reddish-brown Munros stand out against the blue sky. Munros are Scottish mountains higher than 914 meters, named after Sir Hugh Munro, who mapped all these mountains long ago. I dream of one day becoming a Munro bagger, someone who has climbed all the Munros. I realize that I can make a start on this road trip, and in the early morning, we park at Stac Pollaidh, a mountain that rises like a bump from the landscape.

At the start, we don't know what the whole mountain looks like, because there is a large cloud hanging around the top. We follow the rising, muddy path up through the cloud, unable to see much further than the path at our feet. Once at the top, the clouds dissipate within a few minutes, and we stand under a blue sky, looking out over the Scottish west coast, other Munros on my list, and many small lakes reflecting the blue sky.

Bays and Mountains

Every turn in the route spoils us with a new view, and we can't get enough of it. We find it so beautiful here that we decide not to drive the entire route and instead see how far we get by making so many stops. We walk on beaches in bays that could've come straight out of a travel brochure for a tropical country, with their white sand, blue sea, and rolling mountains. In some bays, seals sunbathe on rocks while communicating with each other through a kind of wolf-like howling. When we're in the mood for a challenge, we climb one of the hills.

We don't always make it to the top; some mountains require a bit more experience. Yet, halfway up the route, the view is already worth the effort. In villages, we're welcomed by the locals warmly. They don't always have it easy with the increasing flow of tourists slowing down their drives and taking up scarce parking spots. Nevertheless, they continue to welcome every visitor with a big smile and much helpfulness. When we stand in a village with our map in hand, looking confused, every resident offers assistance. When we're too tired to walk back to the car after a hike, I get a lift within three minutes.

Practical Information about the North Coast 500

The North Coast 500 takes you through the three things that, to me, make Scotland the perfect holiday destination: diverse, rugged landscapes, picturesque villages, and friendly people. Want to experience driving the North Coast 500 yourself? Here are some tips:

• Take plenty of time to drive the route. I would allocate at least eight days so that you have enough time to stop along the route and enjoy the scenery on foot.
• You can drive the route in both directions. Drive clockwise to stay as close to the sea as possible. After all, in Scotland, you drive on the left side of the road.
• Book your accommodation well in advance. There is relatively little accommodation available for such a popular route, and especially in the north, you can go for miles without seeing anything or anyone.
• Keep your car's fuel level as high as possible. There are far fewer gas stations along the North Coast 500 (especially in the North) than we are used to in the Netherlands and Belgium.
• Never park your car or camper on passing places, but always in designated parking areas. Sometimes this means you have to walk a bit further to your viewpoint, but it ensures the safety of other road users.
• Bring rain gear; it's still Scotland.
• You can find everything you need to know about the route on the North Coast 500 website.

On our Scotland page, you'll find even more adventurous travel information about Scotland.