The Surf Sabbatical

We had an early-ish morning surf at pleasure point, one of the main surf breaks in SC. The spot is a beautiful, casual point break out in front of Jack O’Neill’s old house, who invented the surf leash, I have recently found out. Between the crowds, the locals, the atmosphere, the new spot and the waves, I was in my head big time. Resulting in 0 caught waves. It was frustrating, but a good learning experience. I was so scared of being in the way that I overcompensated by being way out on the shoulder and not catching anything.

Post surf, we had some lunch (sponsored by Trader Joe’s), went to a couple surf shops, bought a surf skate, then came back to the Airbnb for a shower, some work and some R&R Went to TJs again for dinner then came home and watched a movie. A nice and relaxing evening.

Maddy Bradshaw

32 chapters

8 Jun 2021

Santa cruising

May 24, 2021

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Santa Cruz, CA

We had an early-ish morning surf at pleasure point, one of the main surf breaks in SC. The spot is a beautiful, casual point break out in front of Jack O’Neill’s old house, who invented the surf leash, I have recently found out. Between the crowds, the locals, the atmosphere, the new spot and the waves, I was in my head big time. Resulting in 0 caught waves. It was frustrating, but a good learning experience. I was so scared of being in the way that I overcompensated by being way out on the shoulder and not catching anything.

Post surf, we had some lunch (sponsored by Trader Joe’s), went to a couple surf shops, bought a surf skate, then came back to the Airbnb for a shower, some work and some R&R Went to TJs again for dinner then came home and watched a movie. A nice and relaxing evening.

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