The Surf Sabbatical


Surprise surprise, an early session did not work out..again. It’s so hard to resist the sweet temptation of a couple more hours of sleep in a cozy bed. Especially when that bed is going away in a couple of hours and we’re back to the tent. Not that we don’t love the tent, but let’s call a spade a spade. We had an easy, slow morning followed by some cruising and surf board shopping for Niko. We checked out a couple of mid afternoon surf spots before settling on the pristine waves of pleasure point. It’s hard to beat and this afternoon was no exception. We had a nice little short session, for once, before heading back to San Marcos for some more tacos and a modello. Ahhh, the sweet satisfaction of life on the road. It’s never more apparent than after a long ish day, salt in the hair and in the eyes, a cold beer in hand and a warm belly. This is living, we think. Why can’t it always be this way? Why does life have to be divided into these moments and 9-5 moments? I wish it could be more blended than it is, but maybe we’ll find a way. For now, I sit on the yeti at the new Brighton state beach where we are camping for the next few nights and revel in this moment. For there is only now, only

Maddy Bradshaw

32 chapters

8 Jun 2021

San Marcos Charquitos

May 26, 2021

|

Santa Cruz, CA


Surprise surprise, an early session did not work out..again. It’s so hard to resist the sweet temptation of a couple more hours of sleep in a cozy bed. Especially when that bed is going away in a couple of hours and we’re back to the tent. Not that we don’t love the tent, but let’s call a spade a spade. We had an easy, slow morning followed by some cruising and surf board shopping for Niko. We checked out a couple of mid afternoon surf spots before settling on the pristine waves of pleasure point. It’s hard to beat and this afternoon was no exception. We had a nice little short session, for once, before heading back to San Marcos for some more tacos and a modello. Ahhh, the sweet satisfaction of life on the road. It’s never more apparent than after a long ish day, salt in the hair and in the eyes, a cold beer in hand and a warm belly. This is living, we think. Why can’t it always be this way? Why does life have to be divided into these moments and 9-5 moments? I wish it could be more blended than it is, but maybe we’ll find a way. For now, I sit on the yeti at the new Brighton state beach where we are camping for the next few nights and revel in this moment. For there is only now, only

what needs to be done now, what needs to be seen now, what needs to be enjoyed now. Later is not on our minds.

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