Hit snooze again before we rolled out of the campsite around 7:30. Checked out a couple of surf spots before deciding on pleasure point, once again. I should’ve known I wasn’t feeling like surfing. My eye hurt like hell from my newly acquired stye, and I was just feeling all sorts of meh. After a while of ineffective surfing and mounting frustration, I was at my wits end. Niko called me to come over to him and I snapped a little, causing me to cry and him to get frustrated with me. I couldn’t catch a damn wave. My pop up was shit. And I wasn’t on great terms with Niko. We called it a little while after, only to be terse and tense with each other for a while after. Can I do this? Can I be a surfer? I know I can I just get so damn frustrated with myself that I’m not there yet. All in all, kind of a shit morning. We went to town after for lunch and to work for a bit which eased tensions. I booked a surf lesson for Friday. Went to a surf shop and then decided to ease the pain with a few beers at humble sea brewing which snapped us back into equilibrium. Talked surf life and more surf before we made up fully. Went back to check out the surf, decided not to get in, headed to Safeway, then of course San Marcos (for the third time in sc) for more tacos. Back to the campsite for a little housekeeping, frisbee, shower and now I’m laying in bed, ready to get some shut eye before an early morning start (fingers crossed). It was a real day, and that’s all we can ask for some days. Real is good. It means I’ve felt something that has moved me, one way or another. So many days in life, I move through like a robot, never feeling thing too fully, so I am grateful even for days like today. To more real days ahead.
Maddy Bradshaw
32 chapters
8 Jun 2021
June 13, 2021
|
Santa Cruz, CA
Hit snooze again before we rolled out of the campsite around 7:30. Checked out a couple of surf spots before deciding on pleasure point, once again. I should’ve known I wasn’t feeling like surfing. My eye hurt like hell from my newly acquired stye, and I was just feeling all sorts of meh. After a while of ineffective surfing and mounting frustration, I was at my wits end. Niko called me to come over to him and I snapped a little, causing me to cry and him to get frustrated with me. I couldn’t catch a damn wave. My pop up was shit. And I wasn’t on great terms with Niko. We called it a little while after, only to be terse and tense with each other for a while after. Can I do this? Can I be a surfer? I know I can I just get so damn frustrated with myself that I’m not there yet. All in all, kind of a shit morning. We went to town after for lunch and to work for a bit which eased tensions. I booked a surf lesson for Friday. Went to a surf shop and then decided to ease the pain with a few beers at humble sea brewing which snapped us back into equilibrium. Talked surf life and more surf before we made up fully. Went back to check out the surf, decided not to get in, headed to Safeway, then of course San Marcos (for the third time in sc) for more tacos. Back to the campsite for a little housekeeping, frisbee, shower and now I’m laying in bed, ready to get some shut eye before an early morning start (fingers crossed). It was a real day, and that’s all we can ask for some days. Real is good. It means I’ve felt something that has moved me, one way or another. So many days in life, I move through like a robot, never feeling thing too fully, so I am grateful even for days like today. To more real days ahead.
1.
Last Day in Hood River
2.
Otter Rock
3.
Port Orford-Nor Cal
4.
Van Damm-Bolinas
5.
San Francisco-Pacifica
6.
Half Moon Bay-Santa Cruz
7.
Santa cruising
8.
SC
9.
San Marcos Charquitos
10.
Styes and soul searching
11.
So it begins!
12.
We made it
13.
Day 1
14.
Adult Summer Camp
15.
Surf Camp or Bootcamp?
16.
Vila Nova de Milfontes
17.
Vila Nova de Milfontes...continued
18.
Reflections
19.
Razo
20.
Costa Rica!
21.
A quick appreciation post for Costa Rican food
22.
The people you meet traveling
23.
First time for everything
24.
Hard goodbyes and new places
25.
Nosara-Tamarindo
26.
Witches Rock
27.
El Salvador
28.
Good food, good surf, good people
29.
Life in El Sal
30.
La libertad
31.
Futbol
32.
Moto tours, Mexico City and national emergencies!
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