The Surf Sabbatical

Hit snooze again before we rolled out of the campsite around 7:30. Checked out a couple of surf spots before deciding on pleasure point, once again. I should’ve known I wasn’t feeling like surfing. My eye hurt like hell from my newly acquired stye, and I was just feeling all sorts of meh. After a while of ineffective surfing and mounting frustration, I was at my wits end. Niko called me to come over to him and I snapped a little, causing me to cry and him to get frustrated with me. I couldn’t catch a damn wave. My pop up was shit. And I wasn’t on great terms with Niko. We called it a little while after, only to be terse and tense with each other for a while after. Can I do this? Can I be a surfer? I know I can I just get so damn frustrated with myself that I’m not there yet. All in all, kind of a shit morning. We went to town after for lunch and to work for a bit which eased tensions. I booked a surf lesson for Friday. Went to a surf shop and then decided to ease the pain with a few beers at humble sea brewing which snapped us back into equilibrium. Talked surf life and more surf before we made up fully. Went back to check out the surf, decided not to get in, headed to Safeway, then of course San Marcos (for the third time in sc) for more tacos. Back to the campsite for a little housekeeping, frisbee, shower and now I’m laying in bed, ready to get some shut eye before an early morning start (fingers crossed). It was a real day, and that’s all we can ask for some days. Real is good. It means I’ve felt something that has moved me, one way or another. So many days in life, I move through like a robot, never feeling thing too fully, so I am grateful even for days like today. To more real days ahead.

Maddy Bradshaw

32 chapters

8 Jun 2021

Styes and soul searching

June 13, 2021

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Santa Cruz, CA

Hit snooze again before we rolled out of the campsite around 7:30. Checked out a couple of surf spots before deciding on pleasure point, once again. I should’ve known I wasn’t feeling like surfing. My eye hurt like hell from my newly acquired stye, and I was just feeling all sorts of meh. After a while of ineffective surfing and mounting frustration, I was at my wits end. Niko called me to come over to him and I snapped a little, causing me to cry and him to get frustrated with me. I couldn’t catch a damn wave. My pop up was shit. And I wasn’t on great terms with Niko. We called it a little while after, only to be terse and tense with each other for a while after. Can I do this? Can I be a surfer? I know I can I just get so damn frustrated with myself that I’m not there yet. All in all, kind of a shit morning. We went to town after for lunch and to work for a bit which eased tensions. I booked a surf lesson for Friday. Went to a surf shop and then decided to ease the pain with a few beers at humble sea brewing which snapped us back into equilibrium. Talked surf life and more surf before we made up fully. Went back to check out the surf, decided not to get in, headed to Safeway, then of course San Marcos (for the third time in sc) for more tacos. Back to the campsite for a little housekeeping, frisbee, shower and now I’m laying in bed, ready to get some shut eye before an early morning start (fingers crossed). It was a real day, and that’s all we can ask for some days. Real is good. It means I’ve felt something that has moved me, one way or another. So many days in life, I move through like a robot, never feeling thing too fully, so I am grateful even for days like today. To more real days ahead.

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