Easily my best day of surfing, ever, as well as Niko’s. We woke up early to pink skies (and admittedly, a foul stench in the air permeating the town-we think it’s nearby farm smells…we hope?) and no one in the water but ourselves. I wanted Niko to take photos/videos of me surfing but as soon as the phone was on me, I wasn’t surfing well, so we ditched that plan. He got in the water and we soon got in a groove. We could not have created better waves and conditions for ourselves if we tried. There was a beautiful right breaking consistently so we both took laps on that, smiling from ear to ear, paddling back to one another after each wave. One wave in particular, I paddled to the peak of the wave, turned around and hopped on the shoulder at the perfect point, right in the pocket, popped up well and was off down the line, properly down the line, the whole time. I was able to turn a little here and there, and ultimately finished the wave off the shoulder, landing gracefully back onto my board. It was pure bliss. A ride that, fingers crossed, feels like a crossing over, and hopefully a signal of better surfing to come (on some days). “We’re actually surfing” Niko beamed at me on my way back out. Some days, we’re actually surfing.