Day 8: To Khamlia and a camel ride

02.18.2017

Time to leave the oasis, Kira driving us down to Khamlia, two hours to the south. Oasis makes way to dusty, desert towns and then the dunes appear on the horizon.

Khamlia is just past the dunes and past the fake-kasbah hotels lining the road in Merzouga. A real one horse town. It just needs some tumbleweed and the banging of a saloon bar doors.

Ahmed meets us at the car but stories of fake guides leading unwary tourists to the wrong accommodation have made us unnecessarily suspicious until we go inside and see the Irish flag pinned up and know we're in the right place.

Kira drives off and Ahmed, with no hard feelings, gives us a light lunch which we eat on the roof terrace from where we spy our camels arriving in the distance. Ahmed (another one) and Aziz lead us through scrub and low dunes to a sheltered spot where they brew a pot of tea and Iza tries on a head scarf.

Then it's on to the high dunes and a walk up the soft sand to the top. Not an endless vista, the dune area is actually quite small, but impressive none the less. We spot other camel tours in the distance and a 'genuine bedouin camp' where holiday makers can spend a noisy and chilly night, an experience we thought about then dismissed, much to the joy of the children who prefer a bathroom and heater to bonfire and communal singing.

We don't wait for sunset as clouds would prevent us seeing it in any case but by the time we get back it is already dark. Owners Suzanne and Abdoul plus Suzanne's brother and niece have now arrived and greet us warmly.

We dine in the living room, Suzanne's home away from home full of books, games and DVDs, cosy and warm and welcoming, just like our new hosts.



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