Day 5: Volubilis and flight to Errachidia

Another huge breakfast starts the day. Back into town to see if we can photograph the mosque, which is closed to non-Muslims. A soldier on duty outside doesn't mind. Snaps taken, we set off on the 4km walk to Volubilis. The sun is hot and there is little shade but olive groves, farmers and turtles help the time pass.

Volubilis is quiet but the guides waiting for custom don't seem interested in showing us around. They ask, but only once, then return to their conversations. Time is short anyway so guides are unnecessary. Just a quick wander, see the mosaics and the stork with the best address in Morocco and back to Moulay Idriss to buy strawberries and more mandarines for the journey.

Hamid arrives and off we go, with first stop Meknes to see the old city walls and drive in and out of different gates. This is Hamid's hometown and he is understandably proud of its impressive architecture.

Continuing onwards with only a short stop for juice, we arrive at Casablanca airport after dark. Having read reviews of the airport, we enter with trepidation but find the domestic terminal pleasant and clean. Check in takes only a couple of minutes and our late dinner consists of crisps and other snacks before and after security.

Eventually, we board a half empty plane. Two excited women in front of us take no notice whatsoever of the instructions to switch off electric equipment and keep up a Skype video conversation throughout take-off and for most of the journey.

As the plane fails to crash, we wonder how necessary it is to switch all gadgets off. Maybe, like taking shoes off and handing in water bottles at security, it's just something that the powers that be feel that we should be doing. (And as Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv allowed us through security with shoes on and bottles in hand, it's difficult to believe that either really constitute a major security risk).

Soon, we descend to the warmth of the desert and find Said from the hotel waiting for us with a taxi driver for the final twenty minute drive to a small village next to the long oasis that stretches from Errachidia to Erfoud.

The hotel looks grand in the darkness and we are welcomed by the women who work there, despite the late hour. Said struggles to the top floor with the suitcases and we settle down in the beautifully decorated and well-heated room waiting to see the view now hidden by the darkness.