Day 10: Khamlia

A strong wind is blowing as we wake up. We take a short walk into the dunes which becomes even shorter as fine sand gets into our eyes and mouths and drives us into the safety of a cafe / art gallery run by a French woman and local man, both artists.

We settle comfortably on colourful cushions and enjoy freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee while the wind whistles outside. (cafe photo not ours - nicked from Trip Advisor)

The wind stops us from taking a cycle ride south to Taouz (some intrepid guests still go but we don't envy them). However, we can't let it prevent us from climbing the large dunes to watch the sunset. We wrap scarves around our faces and set off towards a distant cloud of dust which proves not to be caused by the wind but by a Renault 4 rally. A never ending procession of cars gathers in front of the dunes but, thankfully, the rally itself isn't due to start until the morning. Any sound of revving engines is swiftly blown away.

The largest dune is filling quickly with sunset watchers who we avoid by staying on lower but still magnificent mounds. The sides of sand dunes are soft and difficult to climb but following the ridge makes the walk easy. And however steep and alarming the sides look, nothing can happen to you if you fall, jump or slide down, as the children repeatedly prove.

Faces covered, we find our own, private viewing area until, suddenly, out of nowhere, a young local girl approaches asking for money. We reward her endeavour and she wanders off again, disappearing into the distance where her sister and mother wait to see what she will bring.

As the sun dips towards the horizon, the colours change from orange to pink. The show over, we set off back to Khamlia as dusk falls quickly. It is dark when we get back for one last desert dinner followed by Abdoul and friends drumming in the living room.