Day 11: Back to the Oasis

The road from Khamlia to Fes seemed a little too far for one day, although it is a well travelled route, so we decided to split it, and, where better to stop than back at the Oasis.

It is sad to leave the desert - we could stay much longer, wandering the dunes, visiting the art gallery cafe and enjoying the good food and warm hospitality at Ksar Khamlia but, as George Harrison once said, all things must pass.

Suzanne drives us and we stop at Rissani market, which Iza and Jan haven't yet seen. We follow the same route as before, looking at fruit, spices, the donkey park, local handicrafts and livestock, with Suzanne exchanging greetings at every place

The journey from Rissani goes quickly and we say a sad farewell to Suzanne but also, in a way, feel as if we are home.

After a brief rest, we head off to look at the old casbah where the sisters were brought up. It is difficult to imagine anyone living within the crumbling walls.

From the casbah we head into the oasis to collect alfalfa for the goats. Said leads the way on the donkey whilst the rest of us walk. Said plays no part in the picking of the plants. Duties are clearly defined and his job is to load the heavy sacks onto the donkey and nothing else.

We fill the sacks - for half an hour, it is a bit of fun but this has to be done several times a day, 365 days a year. Jaś has the chance to ride home but the donkey loses its balance and everything crashes to the ground. Feeling sorry for the donkey, and a little bruised, Jaś decides to walk but the donkey is a working beast so Said jumps on and trots off into the distance.

As evening falls, we get our final desert sunset and, with heavy hearts, settle down to sleep.